10CORSETS AND CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS§7

CORSET ACCESSORIES

21. Hose Supporters.—The hose supporters attached to corsets mean much to a woman's figure, too.   It would seem that their sole purpose is to hold up the hose, when, in reality, they are most needed to hold the corset down, in order to avoid the formation of a ridge at the lower edge. Three pair of supporters are necessary to every corset—one supporter at each side of the front, one at each side, and one at the side back of each side, making six supporters in all. For women who are very stout or have full-hip figures, eight supporters are sometimes used. Although gh the of the supporters is to hold corsets down well, they must not be buckled up

Ruffle
so short to the hose as to stop the circulation of the wearer's blood. In many cases, tight corset supporters are the cause of achy limbs without women being aware of it. As the aim in wearing corsets is to et the greatest possible comfort, the way in which the supporters are ad justed should be given considerable attention.

22. Bust Ruffles.—-Sometimes the wearing of bust ruffles, or ruffles across the front, makes the outer garments of the small or the slender woman appear to excellent advantage, especiallY if the garments are close fitting. A woman who has a bust measure that is very small in proportion to her other her measurements should wear a set of ruffles similar to those shown in Fig. 2.   Such ruffles require very little time to make, as they can be made entirely with the sewing machine, and since they may be easily adjusted and may be washed with other garments, every woman whose appearance would be improved by them should take the necessary time to make them.

23. To make bust ruffles, proceed as follows:   First, cut a piece of lawn or light-weight muslin 4 in. narrower than the chest measure plus the seams and long enough to extend from the waist line to 3 in. above the lower   in., lower end of the breastbone,   1 in., for finish at the top and the bottom.   Fold the piece through the center lengthwise, measure down 2 in. at the center front, and taper off to the ends so that the upper part will form a V, as shown in Fig. 2.   Next cut 3 yd. of bias tuffle 3 in, wide and sew the strips together; then turn a narrow hem on one edge or, better, use the narrowest machine hemmer.   If desired an inexpensive lace may be sewed to the edge of the ruffle at the same time as the hem is stitched. Gather the ruffle its entire e length next, using the machine gatherer, cut it into three equal lengths, and place these lengths 2 in. apart, beginning at the to of the foundation piece, as shown. Cover the raw edges of the two lower ruffles with bias tape, stitching it in position on both edges. Next, bind the two sides and theupper edge with the bias tape or strip, which, if possible, should be a little wider than that used in sewing the lower ruffles on. Finally, turn a hem that, when finished, will be in. wide at the lower edge of the foundation, and thus form a casing through which to run elastic or tape. If elastic is used, cut it about 3 in. shorter than the waist measure turn a narrow hem at each end and sew a hook on the right-hand side and an eye on the left, so that it may be fastened readily. The elastic or the tape tends to hold down at the waist line the foundation to which the ruffles are sewed, thus avoiding any danger of its slipping up too high; each corner of the upper edge of the foundation may be pinned to the undervest. If only a little fulness is desired across the front the ruffles may be made narrower and not so full.

24. If ruffles such as those just ust described are used, they should be made and adjusted in position under the corset cover before measurements for a tight lining are taken. In close-fitting garments such ruffles would make considerable difference in a person's size, and, of course, in drafting, correct measurements above everything else are required.

It is well to remember, also, that when bust ruffles are once adopted they should always be worn, unless they should become passée with all of a person's garments. A good idea is to make two sets of ruffles, in order always to have one fresh and clean.

25.   Some women may insist that the making of ruffles and pads, to say nothing of care in choosing a correct corset, is good time lost and that it is an indication of vanity, which should not be encouraged; yet it is a well-known fact that a woman who gives some thought to her personal appearance gains by so doing, for when she feels safe within herself that she looks her very best in every particular she is much more able to cope with situations than if she were conscious that she is not so well dressed as she should or might be.   Then, too, it is woman's inalienable right to appear as attractive as possible at all times, and the only way in which to do this successfully is to work faithfully to overcome any defects and be frank with herself and choose the garments that are best suited to her individuality.