§7 | CORSETS AND CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS | 13 |

29. Tight-fitting foundation patterns are very essential; in fact, they are practically indispensable at times in the construction of garments for women, for nothing can equal them as a perfect foundation. Linings cut out and made according to such patterns are always referred to as tight linings, whereas the term close-fitting lining would convey the idea better, because, properly, such linings should fit close, but not tight. However, as the term tight lining is so generally used and so well known, it will be adopted in these lessons on dressmaking.

In drafting, the lines of the tight-fitting foundation patterns are made to conform as nearly as possible to the lines of the human figure. These lines merit close study so as to come to a good knowledge of them, and their beauty should be taken into account so that they may be fully appreciated. Both the plan of building up the draft and the method of taking out the darts at the waist line in order that the foundation pattern may be reduced to correspond with the waist measure are interesting, for they enable any one to see readily just how the waist may be made tight or semifitted by properly proportioning the darts at the waist line.

30. The drafting of a tight-fitting foundation waist with a twopiece back is the first of the tight-fitting patterns to be considered.

Fig. 3

Such a pattern draft, made according to the following measurements,

is shown in full size in Plate VI and in reduced size in Fig. 3:

INCHES

Neck ............................................ 13

Bust ............................................. 38

Front ............................................ 21½

Chest ............................................ 14

Width of back .................................... 13½

Length of back .................................... 15

Center-back depth ................................ 7

Armhole ......................................... 15

Waist ............................................ 25

Hip ........................................... 38

Dart ........................................... 8

31. To draft a pattern of this kind, a sheet of paper of the same
size as that used in drafting the plain foundation-waist pattern,
Plate I, is required. The work is begun and carried on in the same
manner as in making the plain foundation-waist draft until point *Q*
is located and the armhole curves are drawn, but *nothing should be
added to the original bust, width-of-back, chest, or front measures.*
The pattern having been drawn up to this point according to the
directions for drafting a plain foundation waist, the remainder of the
drafting should be done according to the following directions:

32. The front waist line should receive attention first. Place
the square, U. S. up, so that its corner is at *N* and its short arm
extends along the center-front line below *N*, and draw a light diagonal
line 5 or 6 in. in length along the long arm. Points *N*_{2}and *N*_{3} must
be located on this line. Point *N*_{2} should be to the right of *N* a
distance equal to one-third the bust line from *F* to *G*_{2}; therefore,
measure the bust line from *F* to *G*_{2}, obtaining in this case 10 3/8in.,
and, placing the corner of the square, L. S. up, on *N* and the short
arm on the center front line above *N*, locate *N*_{2} to the right of *N*
opposite 10 3/8 on the scale of thirds. Then, keeping the square in the same position, locate point *N*_{3} 1
in. to the right of *N*. Next, locate point *L*_{2} midway between points *L* and *J*_{2}, using the straight
edge of the long arm of the square in measuring, and connect points *L*_{2}
and *N*_{2} with a heavy diagonal line. After this line is drawn, mark *F*_{2}
at its intersection with the bust line, and locate point *F*_{3} 1 in. below *F*_{2}
on line *L*_{2} *N*_{2}. Connect points *F* and *N*_{3} with a curved line next,
placing the square, L. S. up, so that *n* of the L. A. C. is at point *N*_{3}
and the edge of the curve, near *t*, touches *F*. It will be observed
that by using the curved line *N*_{3} *F* there is obtained at the center
front a curve that tends to fit into the figure, thus making it possible
to obtain a more perfect side line than would otherwise be the case,
and at the same time to dispense with half darts, which are not only
very difficult to put in, but very unsatisfactory.

33. The remainder of the waist line and the under-arm line
should now receive attention. Thus, with the corner of the square,
either side up, at *N*_{2} and the straight edge of the long arm touching *C*
on the foundation line, draw a light, straight line to connect these
points. Then draw the under-arm line as directed in making the
plain foundation-waist draft, extending it the. dart length, or 8 in.
in this case, below the waist line, and place *R* at the intersection of
this line and the waist line, or line *N*_{2} *C*. Points *T*, *U*, and *V* should then be located and points *A* and *T* connected with a straight line, as in the making of the plain foundation-waist draft, and several additional points located. Thus, locate and mark point *C*_{2}. midway between points *C* and *R* on the waist line; *T*_{2}, 1
in. to the right of *C*_{2};
*U*_{2}, ½
in. to the left of *C*_{2}; and *E*_{2} midway between *K* and *E* on the
back shoulder line.

These points should now be connected to form the pattern lines.
First, place the corner of the square, either side up, on point *E*_{2} and
the straight edge of the long arm on *T*_{2} and draw a heavy straight line to the bust line, locating *B*_{2} at the point where these lines meet. Then connect with a heavy curved line the points *B*_{2} and *T*2, placing the square, U. S. up, so that ff of the L. A. C. is at *T*_{2} and the edge of the curve, near bb, touches *B*2. The position of the square in making this curved line is such that the straight edge of the short arm is toward you. Then, connect *B*_{2} and *U*_{2} with a heavy curved line, moving the square up and over to the left so that mm of the L. A. C. touches *U*_{2} and the edge of the curve, near *gg*, touches *B*_{2}.

Next, connect points *G*_{2} and *U* with a heavy curved line as in
drafting the plain foundation waist or in connecting points *B*_{2} and *T*_{2}
of this draft; that is, place *ff* of the L. A. C., U. S. of square up, on *U*
and the curved edge of the long arm, near *bb*, on *G*_{2}. Then, connect *G*_{2} and *V* in the same way as *B*_{2} and *U*_{2} were connected—*mm* of
the L. A. C. at V and the edge of the curve, near *gg*, at *G*_{2}.

34. To complete the drafting of the side front section, two more
points, namely, *V*_{2} and *V*_{3}, must be located. To locate point *V*_{2},
it is necessary to have the correct measurement of the front section
and the two back sections, which is found as follows: Measure
the waist line of the front section from *N*_{2} to *N*_{3}, placing the square,
U. S. up, so that the straight edge of the long arm is next to you.
In this case, the distance between points *N*_{2} and *N*_{3} is 2½ in. Place
the measurement mark thus obtained, in this case the 2½-in. mark,
on point T and measure over to *T*_{2}, getting in this case 4 7/8 in., slide
the square over the dart, place the measurement mark just obtained,
4 7/8 in., on point *U*_{2}, and measure to *U*, getting in this case 7 7/8 in.;
now skip this dart, or space, and place the last measurement mark
obtained, 7 7/8 in., on point *V* and measure out to the left on this
line *N*_{2} *C* to a point on the square indicating one-half the waist measure, in this case opposite 25 on the scale of halves. At this point
locate *V*_{2}. In measuring the waist line of these sections the work can be facilitated by using the thumb of the left hand as a guide. The thumb is placed at the proper mark on the square as each measurement is taken and held there until the square is properly placed for the next measurement. This method insures accuracy and it simply requires a little practice to become skilful.

Next, locate and mark point *V*_{3} below point *F*_{3} a distance equal
to line *N*_{2} *F*_{3} minus ¼ in. On measuring the line for this draft, it
is found to be 7 7/8 in.; therefore, place the corner of the square on *F*_{3}
and its straight edge on *V*_{2} and locate point *V*_{3} the length of line
*N*_{2} *F*_{3} minus ¼ in., or in this case 7 5/8 in., below *F*_{3}. With point *V*_{3}
located, connect it and *F*_{3} with a curved line, placing the square,
L. S. up, so that *m* of the L. A. C. is at *V*_{3} and the edge of the L. A. C.,
near *s*, touches *F*_{3}. Then, move the square until *3*_{C} of the F. B. C.
of the square falls on *F*_{2} and adjust the curve to touch the line *F*_{3} *V*_{3}
from ½ to 1 in. below point *F*_{3} and draw the short curve thus outlined
by the *F. B. C*. Next, turn the square around so that *m* of
the L. A. C. touches *V* and the edge of the L. A. C., near *q*, is at *V*_{3}
and connect these two points.

35. Next in order in making this tight-fitting foundation-waist
draft is to extend below the waist line the lines that form the hip
section. First, measure down the dart length, in this case 8 in.,
on line *A C* and locate point *W*, and then connect points *T* and *W*
with a heavy diagonal line. Next, with the U. S. of the square up,
place the straight edge of the short arm along the bust line, allowing
the straight edge of the long arm to touch *T*_{2}, and draw a heavy
vertical line the dart length, in this case 8 in., below *T*_{2}, lettering
its termination *W*_{2}. Then connect *W* and *W*_{2} with a heavy line
horizontal to the waist and bust lines.

Point *S* is located the dart length below *R* on the foundation underarm line. Next, locate point *S*_{2} ½ in. to the right of *W*_{2}, and with the
straight edge of the square on points *U*_{2} and *S*_{2}, locate point *S*_{3} the dart length, in this case 8 in., below *U*_{2}. With these points located, connect *U*_{2} and *S*_{3} with a heavy curved line, placing s of the L. A. C. of the square, L. S. up, on *U*_{2} and the edge of the L. A. C., near *w*, on *S*_{3}. Turn the square U. S. up, and connect points U and S with a similar curved line, placing gg of the L. A. C. on point *U* and the edge of the L. A. C., near *cc*, on *S*. Then connect points *S* and *S*_{3} with a heavy diagonal line.

36. Next, extend the center front line until it is the dart length,
in this case 8 in., below *N*, and locate point *X* at its termination.
Then locate point *X*_{2} 1 in. to the right of *X*, placing the square
L. S. up, its corner at *X*, and its short arm on the foundation line.
Measure the distance from *N*_{3}to *N*_{2} on the front waist line, in this
case 2½ in., and then locate point *X*_{3}this distance plus ½ in., in this
case 3 in., to the right of *X*_{2}, placing the square in the same position
as in locating point *X*_{2}. With these points *X*_{2} and *X*_{3} thus
located, connect N_{3} and *X*_{2}, *X*_{2} and *X*_{3}, and *X*_{3} and *N*_{2}, each with
a heavy diagonal line.

37. Locate point *Y*, next, a dart length, in this case 8 in., below
*V*_{3}, placing the square L. S. up, its short arm along the bust line,
and its long arm touching point *V*_{3} also, with the square in this
position, draw a heavy line to connect points *V*_{3} and *Y*.

The location of point *Y*_{2} must next be found by measuring the
hip line of the hip sections. Proceed the same as in testing the waist
line. Measure the front section from *X*_{2} to *X*_{3}, obtaining in this
case 3 in. Place the mark of the square thus obtained, 3 in., on
point *S* and measure to S_{3}, obtaining 8 7/8 in. in this case. Place this
mark of the square, 8 7/8 in., on *W*_{2} and measure to *W*, obtaining
12 1/8 in. in this case. Place this mark of the square, 12 1/8 in., on point *Y*
and measure out to a point indicating one-half the hip measure, in
this case opposite 38 on the scale of halves, and mark point *Y*_{2} on
line *S S*_{3}. Knowing the position of point *Y*_{2}, next locate point *Y*_{3};
place the square, U. S. up, so that its corner touches *V* and the
straight edge of the long arm touches *Y*_{2}, and then locate this point *Y*_{3}
the dart length, in this case 8 in., below V. With these points
located, connect *V* and *Y*_{3} with a heavy curved line, placing the square,
L. S. up, so that *s* of the L. A. C. is at *V* and the edge of this curve,
near w, is at *Y*_{3}. Then turn the square around so that *y* of the
L. A. C. is at point *Y* of the draft, and the edge of the curve, near *v*,
touches *Y*_{3} and connect these points, thus completing the drafting
of the tight-fitting foundation waist.

38. **Cutting the Draft Apart**.—The draft for the tightfitting foundation waist is now ready to be cut apart, but before doing so a piece of paper 8 or 10 in. square must be pasted or machinestitched across the back section. This paper should be placed so that it will come just below the waist line and the center of the draft; that is, so that it will back up that part of the draft included
by the lines *U S, S S*_{3}, *S*_{3} *U*_{2}, and *U*_{2} *U*. The purpose of this extra
paper, as will be readily seen, is to take care of the back and side
front sections that overlap. This paper must be pasted or stitched
to the draft only at the waist line; the bottom must hang free. With
this extra piece of paper in place, trace with a tracing wheel from *U*
to *S*; from *S* to *S*_{3}; and from *S*_{3} to *U*_{2}, and then proceed to cut apart the sections of the pattern as follows:

Cut the *center-back section* from *W*, through *T*, to *A*; from *A* to *E*
to *E*_{2}; from *E*_{2} to *B*_{2}to *T*_{2} to *W*_{2}; and from *W*_{2} to *W*. In cutting
from *T*_{2} to *W*_{2}, lift the paper so as not to cut the piece of paper that
has been added to the side back section.

Cut the *side-back section* on the traced line from *S*_{3} to *U*_{2}; from *U*_{2}
to *B*_{2}; from *E*_{2},through *I*, to *K*; from *K* to *G*_{2}; from *G*_{2} to *U*; from *U* on the traced line underneath the original line to *S*; from *S* to *S*_{3}
on the traced line.

Cut the *side-front section* from *Y*_{3} to *V*; from *V* to *G*_{2}; from *G*_{2},
through *Q*, to *J*_{2}; from *J*_{2} to *L*_{2}; from *L*_{2} through *F*_{2} and *V*_{3} to *Y*; and from *Y* to *Y*_{3}.

Cut the *front section* from *X*_{3} to *N*_{2}; from *N*_{2} to *F*_{3}; then from *L*_{2} to *L*; from *L* on the front-neck curve to *O*; from *O*, through *P*, *F*, and *N*_{3} to *X*_{2}; and from *X*_{2} to *X*_{3}.