§7CORSETS AND CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS19

DRAFTING A TIGHT-FITTING WAIST WITH A THREE-PIECE BACK

39.   In order to make a tight lining or waist for a bust measuring 42 in. or more, it will be necessary to draft a pattern with a three-piece back.   If a pattern for a bust measure so large provided for only a two-piece back, the front side section would be so unwieldy that it could not be brought into position to make a perfect fit; also, it is evident that by dividing the side-front sections better lines are obtained and the pattern sections are kept in an even proportion. A draft for a pattern of this kind is shown in Fig. 4.   As will be observed, its front, center-back, and side-back sections are similar to the corresponding sections in the tight-fitting foundation-waist draft, but the side-front section is in two parts.   Therefore, in this three-piece-back waist draft, there are two under-arm lines, one at each side of the armhole instead of one line, as in the two-piece-back draft.

With the exceptions just mentioned, the three-piece tight-fitting waist is drafted in the same manner as the two-piece draft. For the new lines required, additional points must be located. Complete directions, therefore, are not given for this draft; only the location of the points and the position of the square for the new lines are

Corset pattern
Fig. 4
mentioned. With the aid of such information and the knowledge of how to draft the pattern for the two-piece-back waist, no difficulty should be encountered in making the draft for the three-piece-back waist, provided correct measurements are followed.

40. The following model measurements for a woman having a bust larger than 42 in. will serve as check in making drafts for three-piece-back waists. It is from these measurements that the original of the draft shown in Fig. 4 was constructed.

                   INCHES
Neck .............................................   14½
Bust............................................. 44
Front........................................... 23
Chest............................................ 16
Width of back.................................... 15
Length of back.................................... 15
Center-back depth...............................   7
Armhole......................................... 17
Waist............................................ 31
Hip............................................. 44
Dart............................................. 9

Knowing the measurements and the position of the additional points, it is possible to proceed with this draft. Following are the positions and points to observe in drafting this three-piece-back waist:

Make the bust line 1 in. greater than one-half the bust measurement; locate G3 in. to the left of G on the bust line and F4 to the left of G2 on the bust line one-fifth of the distance between G2 and F.

Place point F3 1 in. below F2 on line L2 N2.   Draw the back under-arm line down from G3, and the front under-arm line down from F4, as in Fig. 3.   Place point R3 at the intersection of the front under-arm line and line C N2, or the waist line.   Locate points R4 and V each in. from R3, and points U and R2 each in. from R. Locate point C2 midway between points   U and T; also, locate point T2 in. to the right of C2, and point U2, ¾ in. to the left of C2.

The dart lines above the waist line are drawn the same as corresponding lines in the tight-fitting foundation waist, with the exception of lines F4 R4 and F4 V.   To draw line F4 R4, place m of L. A. C., L. S. of square up, on R4 and the edge of the L. A. C., near s, on F4, extending it above F4 to the armhole.   To draw line F4 V, place the square, U. S. up, so that nn of the L. A. C. is at V and the edge of the L. A. C., near hh, is at F4.

41. Next, draw the lines below the waist line. First, locate points X, X2, and X3 and draw the lines from N2 and N3 following the directions given in connection with the tight-fitting foundation waist in doing this work; also, according to the same directions, draw lines T W, T2 W2, U2 S3, and U S and the straight connecting lines at the bottom.   Next, locate the points for the bottom of the underarm section.   Measure ½ in. to the right of S to locate Z, and locate point Z2 the dart length below R3.   Then draw line R2 Z by placing the square, L. S. up, so that s of the L. A. C. is at R2 and the edge of the curve, near w, is at Z; also, connect R4 and Z2 by placing the square, U. S. up, so that ff of the L. A. C. is at R4 and the edge of the curve, near bb, touches Z2. Then connect Z2 and Z with a straight line.   Next, draw the line V3 Y as in drafting the tight-fitting foundation pattern, and locate point Y3 by measuring all the sections at the bottom, or hip line, following the same method as described for locating point V3 on the waist line.   Then, connect V and Y3, placing the square, L. S. up, so that s of the L. A. C. is at V and the edge of the curve, near w, is at Y3.   Finally, connect Y and Y3 with a slightly curved line, placing the square, U. S. up, so that the arrowhead of the L. A. C. is at Y3 and the edge of the curve, near cc, is at Y.

42.   In cutting this draft apart to form the parts of the pattern, follow the same general directions given for cutting the preceding draft apart, and to accommodate the extra section of the three-piece back below the waist line be sure to use a piece of paper of the proper size.