22CORSETS AND CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS§7

DRAFTING A PRINCESSE PATTERN

43. A princesse pattern is never out of place in the making of tight linings, for many women prefer to extend the hip sections on down and thus make a foundation petticoat at the same time as the waist of the tight lining. Since the drafting of a princesse-slip pattern means merely the making of an extension on a tight-lining pattern, it will be considered at this time.   A foundation pattern of this kind offers so many opportunities for use that the drafting of it should be thoroughly mastered now; then, when an opportunity to use such a pattern arises, the method will be understood and no difficulties will be encountered.

The princesse pattern here discussed is used in making princesse dresses, princesse slips, and combination suits; of course, only the drafting of this pattern is taken up now, the detailed information relating to the making and trimming of princesse dresses and their variations being taken up later in its proper place.

Corset pattern
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44.   To draft a pattern for a princesse slip, or dress, it is simply necessary to follow the instructions for drafting the foundation tight-fitting waist shown in Fig. 3.   The lines are extended the dart length below the waist, and the hip lines are tested the same as in drafting the tight-fitting waist pattern; then, the lines are extended below the hip line the length of the slip desired.   As in drafting other patterns, paper of the proper size should be used; and, as the long arm of the square is rather short for extending the lines, use may be made of a yardstick. However, as has been mentioned elsewhere, the square may be used if no yardstick is handy.

45.   Having proceeded with the drafting up to and including the extending of the lines below the waist, continue the drafting by extending the lines below the hip, as follows: Place the corner of the square, U. S. up, on point T and its long arm along line T W, and extend line T W until it is the length of the back skirt length; in this case, the length is 42 in., as the draft shown in Fig. 5 is made according to the model measurements previously given. Extend line T2 W2 straight down from W2 in the same manner, and connect lines T W and T2 W2 at the bottom with a straight line.   Next, place the corner of the square on T2, and with the straight edge of the long arm touching S3 extend line U2 S3 until it is the back skirt length below U2, in this case 42 in. Then locate point R2 midway between R and U on line C R, place the corner of the square on R2 and the straight edge of the long arm on S, and extend the line U S the length of the side skirt length, in this case 42 in., below U. With lines U S and U2 S3 drawn, connect them at the bottom with a straight line.   Next, place the corner of the square on R and the straight edge of the long arm on Y3, and extend line V Y3 until it is the side skirt length, in this case 42 in. below V.   Then extend line V3 Y straight down from Y, making it the same length as the preceding line, and connect the bottom of this line and line V Y3 with a straight line. Next, place the corner of the square, L. S. up, on N3, its short arm along line N3 N2, and draw a line along the long arm the length of the front skirt length, in this case 41 in., and letter the termination of this line X2.   Then, with the square L. S. up; its corner at X2, and its short arm along N3 X2, draw a line along the long arm from point X2, making it equal in length to the distance between N3 and N2 plus 12 in., and letter its termination X3.   Finish the draft by connecting the two points X3 and N3 with a diagonal line.

46. To form the pattern for the princesse slip from this draft, proceed as explained in connection with the tight-fitting waist drafts, using, of course, paper of the proper size to accommodate the extensions below the waist line.