§7CORSETS AND CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS27

CLOSE-FITTING PATTERNS FOR FIGURES OUT OF PROPORTION

49.   Up to this time sufficient study and practice has been had to permit a few suggestions to be made about the drafting of closefitting patterns for figures that are out of proportion, not, however, those enough out of proportion to be deformed, but figures with rounding shoulders, those with backs that are full between the neck and the shoulders, those with very wide backs and narrow chests, and so on.   The woman who has thoroughly mastered the drafting up to this point will enjoy working out drafts whose measurements do not correspond with the average, for, the plan of proportioning on which all the drafts are built make it possible with a little study and practice to make a perfect-fitting pattern for any figure.

50.   There is one measurement, namely, the center-back depth, that must ever be considered in drafting patterns for persons out of proportion.   It will readily be seen how the length of the centerback depth will affect the height of the shoulder, and as line G H of the draft is governed by the armhole measure it is necessary sometimes, especially in extreme cases where the shoulders are rounding, to use a center-back-depth measure that corresponds with the armhole measure, which may be determined from the table of proportions given in Pattern Drafting.   For example, if in taking the measurements of a person it is found that the center-back-depth measure is too long, use should be made of a measure that corresponds with the armhole measure, and then from the original lengthof-back measure in drafting should be subtracted the difference between the original center-back-depth measure and the one used for drafting, thus avoiding the making of the back length too long; then, before cutting out the material, the pattern should be slashed from D on the draft to line G H, so that it may be separated in placing the pattern on the material, as shown in Fig. 6, to give the necessary length to the back, especially over the rounding part of the shoulders where the lining might draw if such a precaution were not taken. It should be borne in mind that such an alteration in
Patten on the material
Fig. 6
the pattern is not necessary unless the round shoulders are very pronounced, when it will rarely be necessary to separate the pattern more than ¾ to 1 in. at point D, as shown at a.

51. For very narrow chests, where the width-of-back measure is wide in proportion to the chest measure, to 1 in. should be added to the original chest measure in order to give better lines to the draft. A lining so drafted will help to lose sight of the narrow chest.

Sometimes a figure with a roll of flesh just below the prominent bone at the back of the neck is encountered. This flesh takes up the lining so much that 1t is well in such cases to slash the pattern from 1 to 2 in. below A on line A B of the draft and separate it 1/8 to in. in order to allow addlitional length.

Very wide backs and small bust measurements may be adjusted to give better line, to both the draft and the figure if the width-of- back measure is reduced 1/8 to in. in. so that the draft may be kept in better proportion. Very narrow backs and wide chests may also be made to show less difference if the width-of-back measure is increased 1/8 to in. in drafting.

NOTE.—If there is slight difference between waist and bust measurements, place, in drafting, V and U each in. from R and U2 ¼ in. and T2 in. from C2. Locating these points in this way will give a more evenly balanced waist line and permit line V3 F3 to be more graceful.   In extreme cases line X2 F may be omitted or a plain shirtwaist pattern developed without the usual additions to the measurements and with darts in the front may be used.