CHAPTER 19

REDESIGNING AND REPAIRS

Redesigning

The Redesign Department, which handles all Spencer Supports returned to the Company for redesigning, is maintained for two reasons :

l. A redesigned support will give the same support to the client as a newly designed Spencer when it is handled by Spencer Technicians. They alone understand the problems involved in redesigning Spencer Supports.

2. It is not profitable for you to use your time in altering supports.   Your time is much more valuable when used in making sales.

Every support that is redesigned by the Company is literally remodelled to suit conditions indicated by changes ordered. All redesign work is done at actual cost of labour and material.

Delivery of New Support. When you deliver your client's new Spencer (especially her first), you should prepare her to anticipate the need for changes later on. Her Spencer is designed to create certain improvements in her figure. Such changes show that the support is improving her figure. The need for redesigning is proof that her Spencer is helping her figure.

As your client's figure improves, the support may lace unevenly and need alterations. As soon as this is apparent, the support should be sent to the Company to be redesigned. This will assure longer wear and greater satisfaction to the client.

Check Support on Client's Figure. Each operation in redesigning requires even more time than a similar operation on a new support. It also requires the most skilled labour. Do not have any support changed until you have seen it on the figure and know changes are necessary. If a support does not fit correctly, it should not be worn for a single day.

First, make sure that the bones are moulded correctly. Then, readjust the support on the figure. Many times you will find that the client has not been adjusting the support properly, and this has given the impression that it did not fit correctly.

After readjusting the support, have the client walk around the room, bend over, sit down and get up again. Watch the support closely to see if it works up on the figure. If so, determine the cause and send complete instructions for changes to the support that will eliminate this trouble. It is not enough merely to state that the support works up on the figure, as there are a number of reasons for this. Some of the reasons are as follows :

Support Too Full at Top. Top Edge Measurement may be too large. Having the support fit snugly above the waist, at under-arm and back helps to hold it in place.

Support Too Large at Waist. Waist Measurement may be too large. Instead of fitting snugly at the waist, the waistline of the support works up until it reaches a larger part of the figure.

Support Too Tight at 7-Inch Point. The figure may have been controlled too tightly, making the Hip Measurement too small. Under such circumstances, it is natural for the support to work up until it reaches a smaller part of the figure.

Length Waist to Crease Measurement Too Long. Failure to control the buttock flesh until it is firm may cause the part of the support which is designed to curve under the buttocks to come too low on the figure. The support works up until it grips the buttock flesh.

Cloth at Back or Back Bones Too Long. When the cloth at back is longer than necessary, the strain on the lower part of the support is increased when the client is seated, tending to force the support upward. If the back boning is so long that it touches the chair when the client is seated, the support will be forced upward.

Limitations on Redesigning. A support cannot be made higher or longer all around, as this necessitates making an entirely new support. Neither is it practicable to make a support higher at under- arm or longer at hip as this affects practically all sections and requires the making of a new support.

There is a limit to how much a support may be increased or decreased in circumference without changing or destroying the design of the support. To change circumferences without affecting the design, the amount of increase or decrease must be applied to more than one cloth section. If these amounts are too great, it means that practically all sections are affected and the cost of redesigning would be as much as the cost of a new support.

The amount of change can be greater on a large support than on a small one. Generally, the maximum change on a support that is over 40 inches in the waist is 4 inches ; if the waist measurement is between 30 and 40 inches, the maximum change is 3 inches ; if waist is under 30 inches, the maximum change is 2 inches.

Occasional requests have been received to redesign a corset into an abdominal belt or vice versa. Since a corset and belt are two distinctly different supports, this is impossible.

Accurate Redesign Instructions. It is extremely important that all redesign instructions be perfectly clear. Otherwise it is impossible to start work on the support until the Company has written you and received the necessary information. This means serious delay. For example, requests have been received as follows : " Make waist smaller." Of course, the Redesign Department must know the exact number of inches to be taken out of the waist. Whenever a change is necessary, return the support to the Company with complete directions given on the Redesign Order Form.

Delivery of Redesigned Support. When you deliver the redesigned support, be sure that all bones are properly moulded and that it is correctly adjusted. Incorrect adjustment may make the support seem to be a misfit.

Repair Service

Spencer Supports represent the highest standards of quality in both materials and workmanship. Most women wisely own several Spencers for alternate use to obtain maximum service from each.

But nothing lasts for ever. In time Spencer Supports show signs of general wear, and clients-appreciating having received full value for their money-gladly purchase replacements.

However, repair service is available when certain parts of a support have been damaged accidentally or where elastic parts or certain details have become worn and the rest of the support is in fairly good condition.

Spencer repair service should not be confused with that of ordinary corset repair shops. The common method of repairing worn bone casings is simply to place a patch over the worn area. This added bulk on the inside of the support can be very uncomfortable. We do not advise patching bone casings. Instead, the bones and the casings should be removed and replaced with new ones. This takes time, for ripping is slow, tedious hand work. It must be done carefully to avoid damage to the cloth sections.

" General repairs " means that worn hose supporters, elastic gores, trim, top and bottom bindings, and worn bone casings are carefully removed and replaced with new. While very small holes in the material are carefully patched, one or two cloth sections which are badly worn are replaced. Such extensive repairs are justified only if the remaining cloth sections are not worn and can be depended upon to last long enough to justify the expense of the repairs. The cost of repairs outlined is about 2 or more on a coutil support, de- pending on the amount of work and new material involved. Repair work to cost 2 or less is started immediately. If the charge for repairs you request will exceed 2, you are notified and the support is held for further instructions.

When a client asks you to return a support for repairs, examine it carefully to see how badly worn it is. It is obvious that a great amount of work is involved in making general repairs. Since you order such work as a matter of service, and at no profit, it is to your advantage as well as ours that you consider each support carefully.

When it is obvious that the support is worn out and the client has received good return for her money, demure, and state your reason for doing so. Make your client understand why it would be more economical to invest money in a new support. This gives you the profit to which you are entitled, and gives your client greater satisfaction in the long run.

Each support sent in for repairs must be accompanied by a Redesign Order Form 708. You should state clearly what repairs are to be made and what items, such as elastic gores, hose supporters, lacers, straps, etc., are to be replaced. If you say only " repair," the work, including replacement of any worn items, will be done at the discretion of the Repair Department.

Launder All Supports Before Returning

For hygienic reasons, supports which have been worn must be laundered before they are returned to the Company. Such supports are handled like new ones and come in contact with other supports.

When a client asks you to return a stained or soiled support for redesigning, explain that it is a stipulation of the Guild with which the majority of our operatives are in membership that they shall not be asked to handle any support which is in any other than absolutely new or freshened condition, and that consequently the support must be laundered before it can be returned. (Tell her the Company advocates that Spencer Supports be laundered frequently to keep them in good condition. Describe the best method for laundering). Do not under any circumstances act as an agent for client in sending to a laundry because if anything went wrong at the laundry you would be legally responsible if the laundry did not refund cost of damage, and you will be aware that laundries refuse to pay more than four (or five) times the washing charge for any article they may inadvertently damage.


Glossary