CHAPTER 2

DESCRIPTION OF POSTURE AND OF FIGURE

What Figure Analysis Means

The description of figure on the order form gives the Technicians a picture of the uncontrolled figure.   Therefore, the client should disrobe and the figure should always be described as it is, uncontrolled not as you wish it to appear in the new support.

Spencer Fitters are trained to describe posture and to give an accurate figure analysis.

While the posture and figure description is being taken, the client should stand with feet balanced looking straight ahead.

As each description is determined, mark an "X" in the proper place on the order form.   It will be understood by the Technicians that any part of the figure not checked on the order form is "Normal" or "Medium."

The breasts are the only part of the figure described as "Large," "Medium," or "Small."   All other parts are described "Full," "Normal" or "Scant."

If the part of the figure being described is "Very Full," "Very Scant," "Very Large," or "Very Small," you may qualify the description given by placing a "V" before the "X." "S" before the "X" means "Slightly Full," "Slightly Scant," "Slightly Large," or "Slightly Small."

To help you visualize this more clearly, each description is illustrated on the following pages by a drawing of a normal figure, with the Large or Full part of the figure and the Small or Scant part of the figure indicated by dotted lines.

DESCRIPTION OF BREASTS

Size of Breasts


Fig. 6

View figure from side-front.   "Medium," "Small" and "Large" refer to the size of the breasts in relation to the rest of the figure above the waist(see Fig. 6).   If the size of the breasts is in good proportion for that figure, the breasts should be considered "Medium."   If the breasts appear to be small for that figure, they should   Fig. 6 be described as "Small."   If the breasts appear to be large for that figure, they should be described as "Large."

Firmness of Breasts

If the breasts are firmer or softer (flabby) than average, "Firm" or "Soft" should be checked on the order form.

Space Between Breasts

Fig. 7
Breasts Close Together
Fig. 8
Breasts Wide Apart

View figure from the front. "Close Together" and "Wide Apart" refer to any but a normal amount of space between the breasts (see Figs. 7 and 8).   If the breasts are a normal distance apart, it is unnecessary to give this description.

No Definite Crease

In many cases, breasts may be described as having "No Definite Crease."

When the breasts show no definite crease at the base (see Fig. 9), it is important that the Technicians be given this information because a breast support designed for breasts of this type should not be fitted with a full inner lining.   When your client has breasts of this kind, check "No Definite Crease" on the order form.

Pendulous Breasts

Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11
No Definite Crease Pendulous Breasts

Pendulous breasts means an abnormal sagging of the breasts, which causes them to hang low on the body, although the point where the breasts join the body is not lower than usual (see Figs. 10 and 11).

Prominent Ribs

View figure from the side.   When the client's ribs protrude, check "Prominent ribs" on the order form.

Description of Diaphragm

For Spencer purposes, the diaphragm is considered to be that part of the body extending from the waistline at centre-front, to a point in line with where breasts join the body.   When ordering a support, describe only that part of the diaphragm which is to be covered by the support.

When ordering a breast support or Spencer-All, the entire diaphragm will be considered, since the entire diaphragm will be covered by the Spencer-All and by most breast supports.

View figure from the side.   When the figure shows only a slight curve outward above the waist, the diaphragm is "Normal" (see Fig. 12).

When the figure above waist curves inward, toward the breast bone (often the case with a full high abdomen) the diaphragm is "Scant" (see Figs. 13 and 14).

Fig. 12
"Normal"
Fig. 13
"Scant"
Fig. 14
"Scant"
Fig. 15
"Full"

When the figure above waist shows a definite curve outward, the diaphragm is "full" (see Fig. 15).   If the amount of outward curve is not more than is shown at the top dotted line in Figure 15, the correct description is "normal."

Description of Abdomen


Fig. 16

View figure from the side. For purpose of figure description, the abdomen is considered as starting at the waistline (see Fig. 16).   The "Normal" abdomen will have a slight curve, but no pronounced fullness.   The "Scant" abdomen may be flat or concave.   The "Full" abdomen has a decided curve.

High or Low:   When fullness is normally placed, with the greater part of the fullness about halfway between waist and pubic bone, the description "Full" is sufficient.   However, when the fullness is carried higher than this, both "Full" and "High" should be checked on the order form, and when the fullness is low, as in the case of a pendulous abdomen, both "Full" and "Low" should be checked.

When ordering a Spencer Breast Support for a client whose abdomen is full and high, check "Full" and "High" abdomen on Order Form 750.

Front Thighs


Fig. 17

View figure from the side.   Consider the curve from the groin down to the knee (see Fig. 17).   If there is only a slight curve, giving a smooth, unbroken line, the thigh is "Normal." If the line is straight, the description is "Scant."   If there is a bulging curve, the description is "Full."

If the client is wearing a loose slip or other long garment, the garment should be held tightly against the figure from groin to knee so that the amount of thigh fullness can be observed when this part of the figure description is taken.

Back-Up


Fig. 18

View figure from the side.   Consider the curve from the waist up as high as the support is to be ordered (see Fig. 18).

If it is only a slight curve, giving a smooth, unbroken line, it is "Normal."   If the line is straight, the description is "Scant."   If there is a bulging curve, the description is "Full."

Back-Down


Fig. 19

View figure from the side.   Consider the curve from the waist down to the crease where the buttock joins the leg (see Fig. 19).   When the figure has a rounded curve the description is "Normal."   The figure with a straight, flat backline is "Scant."   When the backline shows a bulging curve, the description is "Full."

Note:   Never describe this part of the figure as being flatter than it actually is, in the belief that such a description will produce the flattest possible backline in the finished support. Actually the result might be quite the opposite, as the Technicians would get an inaccurate picture of the figure.

NOTE:   When describing the figure at under-arm, side hip and side thigh, a comparison with the opposite side is necessary. Thus these parts of the figure are viewed from the front.

A difference in description of the right and left sides at any one of these three points would indicate that the figure is larger on one side than the other.   This would require special attention in controlling, and may require separate measurements for right and left sides (see page 251).

Under-Arm


Fig. 20

View figure from the front, but so that side of breast does not obscure the underarm line.   Consider the curve from the waist up as high as support will extend (see Fig. 20).

If there is only a slight curve, giving a smooth, unbroken line, the description is "Normal."   If the line is straight, the description is "Scant."   If there is a bulging curve, the description is "Full."

Side Hip


Fig. 21

View figure from the front. Consider the curve at the side of figure from the waistline down to a point which is opposite and slightly below the crotch (see Fig. 21).

If there is only a slight curve, giving a smooth, unbroken line, the Side Hip is "Normal." If the curve is less than normal, the description is "Scant."   If there is a bulging curve, the description is "Full."

Prominent Hipbones

View figure from the sidefront. Hipbones are "prominent" when their outline can be seen.     When prominent, check space marked "Prominent Hipbones" on the order form.   Prominent hipbones are found only on thin figures.

Side Thighs


Fig. 22

View figure from the front.   Consider the curve in that portion of the side leg which is opposite and slightly above the crotch, down to the knee (see Fig. 22).   If there is only a slight curve, giving a smooth, unbroken line, the thigh is "Normal."   If the curve is less than normal, the description is "Scant."   If there is a bulging curve, the description is "Full."


The control support