Never take measurements for a Spencer Support until you and the client are satisfied that all soft, movable flesh has been relocated by proper control, just as it is to be held in the finished support.
This flesh, especially through hips, abdomen, diaphragm and breast, must be distributed to give the best possible figure lines. Buttock flesh, when soft, must be held firmly within the Control Support. It must not be pushed down.
Have client assume, without strain, a posture as nearly erect as possible throughout the control and measuring.
Perfect control of the figure can best be obtained with the patented Spencer Control Support and patented Breast Control Support.
When controlling for a Spencer Belt, either the Control Support, Emergency Belt or specimen belt may be used.
The client's old Spencer may also be used for control purposes unless figure changes have occurred and the support no longer fits correctly. When the client's old Spencer is used, always remove the support, mould the bones, and readjust it on the figure before taking any measurements.
The Spencer Control Support consists of one back section with a lacer at the centre, and with thigh control sections attached to each side. There are three separate, interchangeable front panels labelled "Small," "Medium" and "Large." The Control Support can be used to control figures with Waist Measurements of from 24 inches to 45 inches, the complete range of figures usually encountered.
The back of the Control Support should always be laced with loops in the fourth and fifth eyelets from the top, and another pair of loops 9 inches below the centre of the top loops. The lacers should be passed twice through the third eyelets from the bottom and left untied. This provides double cross strands. The lacer is left out of the two lowest eyelets on each side. If it is necessary to use other eyelets (when the figure is unusually long, over-developed, short, or under-developed), the lacers can be changed after the Control Support is placed on the figure. Such a change is seldom necessary.
1. Test Waist Measurement
2. Select front panel
3. Determine correct lacing space
4. Mould bones
The size of the figure determines which front panel, if any, will be used. It also indicates how wide the lacing space must be to bring the hip seam to its proper place, as indicated on page 29. Therefore, before placing the support on the figure, it is necessary to take a test Waist Measurement over the uncontrolled figure. Your selection of the proper front panel and the correct lacing space can be determined as follows:
|24 inches to 26 inches||1 inch||None|
|27 „ to 30 „||2 inches||Small|
|31 „ to 38 „||2½ inches to 4 inches||Medium|
|39 „ to 45 „||4 inches to 6 inches||Large|
Note: When the hips and thighs are scant, the front panel ordinarily recommended may be too large through the hips. In such a case the next smaller panel should be used.
In all cases the lacing space should be started slightly wider than it is to be when the figure is completely controlled. This leaves room for the necessary adjustment.
It is important that all bones in the Control Support be moulded as carefully as on any new support being delivered. Satisfactory figure control cannot be obtained unless this is done.
If the Control Support is used when controlling for a belt, mould the front bones decidedly at the bottom so that the curve of the Control Support at that point is similar to the abdominal supporting section of a belt. If the abdomen is so large that additional length is needed for control, one bone in each of the three casings in the centre of the panel can be pushed down to extend the boned area.
The Breast Control Support should be adjusted on the client immediately after the Control Support is adjusted. While the client still stands, all breast support measurements and part of the body support measurements are taken. Therefore, to shorten the time that the client must stand, it is best to prepare the Breast Control Support at this time, before starting the adjustment of the Control Support (see pages 38 and 39).
Note: If client is tired from standing, ask her to sit and rest before starting to adjust Control Supports.
The Control Support should be adjusted with the client standing. Ask her to put on a light slip or vest that will not interfere with the moulding of the figure, particularly the breasts. Then proceed with the eight steps described on the following pages.
(For the pictures illustrating the various steps in controlling and measuring a client we have chosen a model large enough to present a variety of figure problems).
Take a test Waist Measurement over the uncontrolled figure (see Fig. 23) and select size front panel which will be used (see chart on page 21).
Place the back of the support on the figure (see Fig. 24). Have client hold sections at each side front.
Then, hook the slide on the elastic strap to the hook on the right edge of the support (see Fig. 25). When no front panel is used, the elastic strap is fastened to the hook on the inside of the right front section. Have the front well up on the figure and adjust the elastic strap snugly enough to prevent support from slipping up on the figure. The slide on the thigh section strap is fastened to whichever hook is most suitable, according to the size of the figure.
Adjust the lacing space so that the side seam, at top of thigh section, comes approximately over hip joint, on a line directly with under-arm. Then tie the lacer at loops and at bottom cross strands, but do not tighten them (see Fig. 26). Check to be sure the support is straight on the figure, and that the back is placed low enough on the figure. The lowest cross strands of the lacer should be about 1½ inches below the crease where the buttocks join the legs.
When body is larger on one side, see "Control" on page 251.
Note: When an Abdominal Spring Pad or Ptosis Pad is to be worn with the support, the pad should be placed in position before the front panel is hooked into place in Step 4. (See pages 185 to 187 for control with Abdominal Spring Pad and Ptosis Pad.)
The numbers of the straps and slides referred to in this text start with No. 1 at the top and end with No. 4 at the bottom. (a) Place front panel (selected in Step No. 1) about 12 inches above the waistline. The front panel is attached by hooking it to the slides on the straps at sides. Tighten straps SLIGHTLY:
Fourth, No. 3.
Make sure the front panel is centred on the figure (see Fig. 27).
(b) View figure from the back and check to be sure the Control Support is straight on the figure and well below crease.
(c) To straighten the Control Support on the figure, grasp one top corner of the front panel and the top edge of the body portion next to it with one hand, and hold the Control Support firmly in place-or pull it up if necessary. At the same time, grasp with the other hand the bottom side-back and pull the Control Support down to proper position. Do this first on one side and then on the other. If support does not stay down, adjust the lacer to allow more room over the buttocks and thighs.
(d) Preliminary adjustment: Hold top of the body portion and the front panel well up on the figure and, at the same time adjust both No. l straps snugly but not as tightly as for final adjustment. Then adjust the other straps to the same snugness in the following order :
While the straps are being adjusted, the elastic strap which protrudes beyond the front panel, should be tightened from time to time to remove wrinkles from the front sections.
If there is much loose abdominal flesh, have the client lie down for adjustment of straps No. 3 and No. 2. As these straps are adjusted, make sure that superfluous abdominal flesh is smoothed toward the hips, not pushed up into or above the waistline.
The foregoing refers only to adjustment of the Control Support. In the final adjustment of the client's own support on the figure, it is always preferable that she make the adjustment while lying down.
(a) Check the position of the hip seam to make sure it is vertical and over the hip joint (see Fig. 28).
(b) If the hip seam must be straightened, readjust the back lacer, front straps, or both, as necessary.
The lacing space may not be parallel on all figures, due to unusual development above or below waist.
Fasten side hose supporters in straight line with side seam (supporters not shewn on model).
Note: As you proceed in Steps No. 6 and No. 7 to make final adjustmentsof straps and lacer, be sure the client stands as nearly erect as possible.
Tighten No. 1 (top) straps snugly. Then tighten No. 4 straps.
Unhook and fasten thigh sections outside of front panel, and adjust snugly and well up in front to help hold buttock flesh firmly (see Fig. 29).
Tighten No. 3 straps. Then tighten No. 2 straps.
Note: When the figure is small and does not require a separate front panel, the slides on the straps at left side of the support should be fastened to the hooks on the edge of the right front section. These are drawn up and a final adjustment made as described previously. In this case, the straps at the right side of the support are not used.
Note: When adjusting lacer, pull outward and downward. This helps to keep Control Support in place.
Readjust lacer starting with the top loop, putting most of the pull on the top strands of the loop. Avoid too-tight control above waist.
Readjust the lacer between the top loop and the lower loop to give a smooth line (see Fig. 30). Too-tight hip control will cause Control Support to slip up. Readjust the lacer from bottom loop to cross strand only enough to firm flesh of buttocks.
As you are adjusting the lacer, check hip seams from time to time to make sure they are vertical. If hip seams are not vertical, either loosen lacer slightly and tighten the straps or loosen the straps and tighten the lacer, until seam is vertical.
If the double cross strand is above the crease of the buttocks, it is necessary to extend lacer down one or two eyelets. When this is done, do not change the double cross strand but merely pass the lacer through the eyelets below in the usual way. Be sure there is more tension on the lacer at the lowest eyelets than on the double cross strand.
If the double cross strand is below the crease of the buttocks, it is necessary to remove the double cross strand and make a new double cross strand in the eyelets above so that these eyelets will pull in line with the crease of the buttocks.
When the Control Support is properly located, there is always enough room in the top edge of the Control Support at back.
Occasionally there is too much fullness and it is necessary to pin in tucks. This should always be done with the client standing (see Fig. 31).
As a final check, consider whether control gives the best possible figure lines. Also check to see that :
Front panel is straight and centred on body
Hip seam is vertical and approximately over hip joint
Buttocks are properly controlled.