CHAPTER, 4

BREAST CONTROL SUPPORT

The Breast Control Support consists of four front sections, three pairs of enlarging sections, and one back section.

The front sections are of different sizes, but each can be used with the same back section.

Drawstrings or lacers on the fronts permit an endless variety of adjustments for size and shape of breast sections.

The straps and slides at each side of the front sections are used to anchor the support on the client before adjusting the lacers at sides. The lacers at under-arm permit exact circumference adjustments.

The enlarging sections may be used at each under-arm or at centre-back or both places to bring the shoulder straps into the proper position at back or to make the Breast Control Support larger.

METHOD OF LACING BREAST CONTROL SUPPORT

The Breast Control Support is sent unlaced from Banbury, and the correct lacer for each set of eyelets is attached to those eyelets.


Fig. 32
Under-Arm Lacing on Extra-Small, Small and Medium Front Sections

Fig. 33
Under-Arm Lacing on Large Front Section

Lacing Under-Arm

Two short lacers are used at each under-arm and the method of lacing is the same for all four front sections. The lacing is illustrated in Figures 32 and 33. Start the upper lacer from the outside, in eyelets just above the strap and slide. At the top the lacer should be passed through the eyelets twice to form three cross strands when the lacer is tied.   Start the lower lacer from the outside in the eyelets below strap and slide.

Breast Contour Lacing


Fig. 34
Centre-Front Lacing
on Extra-Small
Front Section

Peak to Under-Arm:   (Large, Medium and Small Fronts only). Start lacer on outside in eyelets next to peak and lace to eyelets at under-arm.

Under-Bust Lacers :   Start on outside in eyelets next to peak and lace to bottom eyelets.

Lacing Centre-Front
(Extra-Small Front only)

Two short lacers are used at centre-front in the extra-small front section. The method of lacing is described below (see Fig. 34).

Top Lacer

(a)   Start lacer inside in the sixth pair of eyelets from the top, passing it through these eyelets twice to form triple cross strands (one on inside and two on outside).

(b)   Lace to the fourth pair of eyelets from the top and put through twice to form double cross strands.

(c)   Lace to top eyelets and put through twice to form triple cross strands when tied.

Lower Lacer

(a)   Start lacer on outside in the seventh pair of eyelets from top.

(b)   Lace to eighth pair of eyelets and put through twice to form double cross strands.

(c)   Lace to bottom eyelets.

Types of Breast Control

Control Breast Supports are designed to provide different degrees of uplift, from Non-uplift, Moderate uplift, Normal uplift to high accentuation with peak, according to the preference or needs of the client.

It must be kept in mind when controlling the figure that the client's wishes and design of breast support to be ordered, determine the degree to which the breasts should be uplifted.

For example, when a breast support designed to give normal uplift is being ordered, the breasts must be controlled for normal uplift. Unless this is done, the new breast support will not give normal uplift.

It is obvious that the Bust Measurement will vary greatly according to the type of control. For example, a figure controlled for normal or accentuated uplift will generally have a Bust Measurement at least two inches larger than the same figure controlled without uplift, because :

1. The Bust Measurement is taken with the tape measure following the contour of the figure between the breasts.

2. The Bust Measurement is taken at a higher point on the figure since the breasts were uplifted during control of the figure.

Here are six photographs of the same woman controlled in the three ways, and a Spencer Breast Support designed for each type of control.


     Fig. 39Support Without Uplift
(Conservative)
Fig. 40     

PREPARING BREAST CONTROL SUPPORT FOR NORMAL OR MODERATE UPLIFT

Before the Breast Control Support is placed on the figure, certain preparations are necessary.

The selection of the correct front section to be used in each case depends on the size of the breasts.   This can be determined easily by holding up the Breast Control Support against the figure, and fitting the pockets temporarily over the breasts.

After selecting the appropriate front section for the Breast Control Support and hooking it to the back, the lacing spaces should be prepared as follows :

The under-arm lacing space should be opened at least two inches and ends of lacers should be left untied.

On the small, medium and large front sections, the upper vertical drawstring is left untied. When controlling for normal or moderate uplift, the lower vertical drawstring is drawn up and tied.

The centre-front lacing space in the extra-small front section should be about one inch, and both top and lower lacers should be tied.

The large front section has cloth extensions at the top—one on each side. When additional height is needed at the underarm to control the flesh at that point, the bottom hook of the large front section is fastened to the bottom eye of the back section.   There will be one additional hook extending above top edge of the back section. Each cloth extension may then be pinned with a safety pin to the top of the back section.

When this additional height is not needed at the under-arm, the top hook of the large front section should be fastened to the top eye of the back section, leaving one additional hook below the bottom edge.

Breast contour lacers should be loosened to their limit and untied.

Let out the shoulder straps almost to their full length so that they will not interfere in any way with the positioning of the Breast Control Support on the client.

Before control is begun, ask client to put on a light slip or underwear that will not interfere with moulding of the breasts.

PREPARING BREAST CONTROL SUPPORT
FOR SUPPORT WITHOUT UPLIFT

Follow instructions for Preparing Breast Control Support for Normal or Moderate Uplift. In addition, pin horizontal tucks from peak toward centre-front to help give a flattened appearance.

To Control for Normal Uplift
l. Place Breast Control Support on Client


Fig. 41

While client holds centre-front in place at waistline, stand behind her and draw back sections together.   If sections don't meet at waistline, add one or more enlarging sections at the back.   Fasten one or two lower hooks and eyes at centre-back.

2. Place Breasts in Pockets and Locate Front


Fig. 42

As client lifts breasts forward and upward into breast pockets, place the top centre of the Breast Control Support about one inch below the breast development at that point (see Fig. 42).

Support breasts as illustrated in Figure 43.   As client withdraws her hands, be sure that she does not change position of breasts, or crowd Breast Control Support down at front of under-arm.

As you withdraw your hands, client should hold and continue to hold breasts in this position with both hands (see Fig. 44) until Step No. 6 is completed.


Fig. 43
 

Fig. 44

3. Relocate and Smooth Front


Fig. 45

Hold the Breast Control Support at top and bottom of centre-front and settle support well in between the breasts (see Fig. 45).   Check to see that the Breast Control Support is high enough to cover top of breasts.

4. Check Location of Shoulder Straps


Fig. 46

The location of the shoulder straps will determine which row of eyes at under-arm will be used ; also whether enlarging sections will be needed at under-arm, at centre-back or in both places.   Shoulder straps should be in centre of shoulder blades (see Fig. 46).

5. Fasten Back


Fig. 47

Starting at top, complete fastening at centre-back (see Fig. 47).

Décolleté Back


Fig. 48

To determine if a dé-colleté back (as shown in Fig. 48) is practicable, leave the Breast Control Support unhooked, and with edges turned in, down to a point about 2˝ inches above the waist. Unless the desired support of breasts is maintained, the décolleté back is not practicable for that client.

6. Locate Back and Adjust Under-Arm Lacers


Fig. 49

The client should continue to hold breasts in position. She should also keep her elbows down, shoulders relaxed, and maintain an easy, erect position.

Place the back of the Breast Control Support high enough to take care of flesh at back of under-arm and at shoulders.

While holding the back of the Breast Control Support in place—first with one hand, then with the other—use the free hand to tighten the strap on each side of the Breast Control Support.


Fig. 50

Pull the ends of both lower under-arm lacers outward at the same time. By tightening them in this way you will space the lacing equally on both sides (see Fig. 50).


Fig. 51

Tighten and tie the lower under-arm lacers first on one side, then on the other (see Fig. 51). Then tighten and tie the lower centre-front lacer if extra-small front is used. Test to be sure that the back, sides and front of Breast Control Support are locked in the proper position. If further adjustment is needed to lock the Breast Control Support in proper position, first tighten the Fig. 51 under-arm lacers if there is any lacing. space left. If the under-arm lacers are laced together, loosen them. Unfasten the lower hooks up to and including the one above the waistline. Leave the one just above the waist unfastened and refasten the others to the next row of eyes. Tighten and tie lacers.

7. Adjust Left Peak to Under-Arm Contour Lacer


Fig. 52

Ask client to lean slightly forward and place her right hand under the left shoulder strap and over the breast to the under-arm, and smooth the under-arm flesh and mould the breast forward into the pocket. As she moulds the breast forward, tighten, if necessary, and tie the peak lacer to under-arm contour lacer (see Fig. 52).

8. Adjust Top Left Under-Arm Lacer


Fig. 53

Do not tighten so much as to force flesh over top of Breast Control Support. Before tying have client relax shoulder. Tie lacer.

Check position of Breast Control Support and if necessary raise it slightly in front of under-arm lacer. Then have client remove right hand from left breast and hold Breast Control Support in between breasts with fingertips of right hand.

9. Final Adjustment of Left Shoulder Strap


Fig. 54

Adjust shoulder strap to give desired degree of uplift (see Fig. 54).

Check centre-front drawstrings and if necessary tie the top strings to increase the fullness in pockets to contain flesh.

Caution : If shoulder straps are uncomfortable, explain that the design of the new breast support will help support the weight of the breasts, thus relieving the pull on the shoulder straps. If you were to loosen the straps at this point, you would not retain the proper degree of uplift.

Repeat Steps 7, 8 and 9 on the right side.

10. Adjust Centre-Front Lacers (Extra. Small Front Only)

When using the extra-small front, check upper and lower centre-front lacers and make necessary adjustment to give desired spacing. Be sure that the centre of over-bust panel on each side is over peak of breasts.

11. Adjust the Under-Bust Contour Lacers


Fig. 55

If necessary, adjust under-bust lacers to shape breasts or to mould the flesh through the diaphragm area from under-bust to waist. Do not force breasts upward by too tight adjustment of these lacers. (Figure 55 shows lacers adjusted and tied).

12. Final Check of Adjustment

Check to be sure that the Breast Control Support holds the figure, as your client wishes it to appear in her new breast support.


Also check the following :

For Moderate Uplift and Support Without Uplift

Moderate Uplift :   In control for moderate uplift the breasts are not as high as for normal uplift or for accentuated uplift.

Control to desired contour by adjusting lacers or by taking short horizontal tucks from peak toward centre-front.

Without Uplift :   In control for support without uplift, it will not be necessary for the client to support the breasts with her hands as it is for normal or moderate uplift.

The flattened appearance of breasts is obtained by adjusting the peak-to-under-arm contour lacers closer together at peak than at under-arm, and by taking horizontal tucks from peak toward centre-front (see " Preparing the Breast Control Support for Support Without Uplift," page 39).


To outline and measure for breast support