Careful outlining by means of pins and tape measure is essential to enable you to visualise the client's new breast support. It assures you that the heights will conform with the demands of comfort, health and fashion.
Place all pins in a horizontal position. Whenever you can, put a protective hand inside the Breast Control Support while locating pins to make sure the pins do not touch the client's flesh.
Two tape measures, one with a buckle and one without, are included in your equipment. The tape measure with buckle is to be used in taking the Waist Measurement. This tape should be fastened around the waist and left exactly at the point where the Waist Measurement is taken. All measurements for heights above waist are taken down to the tape measure at waist.
During the outlining for the breast support (or Spencer-All), the client should stand relaxed, with shoulders back, head up in natural position, in a posture as nearly erect as possible. Client continues to hold Breast Control Support well in between breasts with fingertips until Centre-Front to Under-Arm at Bust Measurement has been taken.
The waistline is the narrowest part of the figure between the lowest ribs and the top of the hipbones. Place the tape measure around the client's figure at this point, with the buckle at the client's right front. Slip the tape through the buckle, but do not fasten it. Swing the tape back and forth several times until it settles at the smallest part of the figure, between the lowest ribs and the top of the hipbones. Now fasten the buckle. Be sure the tape is well down on the waist.
View figure from side, and adjust tape, if necessary, to be sure it is parallel with the floor. Pin tape at back and front to hold it in correct position. Pins should be placed through the Breast Control Support into cloth over boning in Control Support.
Place one pin on left side of back where the top edge of the new breast support or Spencer-All is to come. Usually this is just above the lower edge of the shoulder blade. This is the point where the shoulder strap will be fastened in the finished support. (See Fig. 56).
The back will be made to the height specified on the order form. A normal height at Back is about 7 inches.
If a higher than normal back is needed, Built-up Shoulders are recommended, with a minimum height of about 10 inches. When outlining for Built-up Shoulders (see page 128), this pin should be placed halfway between the top of the shoulder and the top of the under-arm crease (see Fig. 57).
Decide where the outward curve of the left breast starts at top, and place a pin slightly above this point (generally about one-half inch). The top edge of the new breast support will come to this point and will extend toward the centre-front and under-arm in lines parallel to the top edge of the Breast Control Support.
Proper placement of this pin is therefore essential if the new breast support is to cover the breast completely and not cut in at the top edge from shoulder strap toward front and toward under-arm.
Figure 58 shows the pin properly placed, the dotted lines showing the outline of the breasts, which will be completely covered by the new breast support.
Figure 59 shows what happens when pin is placed too low. It is obvious that top edge of new breast support cuts into breasts.
If pin is placed too high, the pockets of the new breast support will have too much fullness at top.
Place a pin at the peak of the left breast. (The centre of over-bust panel may not be in line with the peak of the breast). Be sure that client is holding the Breast Control Support between the breasts while this is done.
Directly under the pin at the peak of breast, place a pin under the left breast at the point where the Breast Control Support indicates the bottom of the breast pocket should be.
Place a corset bone under the waistline tape at the client's left side, extending vertically to the top of Breast Control Support. This bone, to which measurements will be taken, must be vertical and in line with the centre of the client's armpit (see Fig. 60). To locate centre of armpit, have client place hand on hip, thumb toward the back about seven inches below waist, with elbow bent. It is then easy to determine where the bone should be placed. Pin it in place with a safety pin to avoid any danger of this bone slipping out of the vertical position while the measurements are being taken.
Figure 60 shows side-front view of client controlled and outlining com pleted — ready for breast support measurements.
The actual process of measuring for a Spencer Breast Support is a simple one, consisting merely of taking measurements at certain points indicated by the pins you have already placed.
For all measurements, the tape measure should be flat and smooth, but should never be pulled so tightly that it presses into the flesh. The photographs show the best place to start the tape in taking these measurements and the easiest way to hold the tape in taking each measurement.
The client should stand relaxed but with shoulders back, head up and in a natural position, in a posture as nearly erect as possible when all measurements are taken.
During the measuring, each pin should be removed as soon as you have finished with it when it will no longer be used for another measurement.
As each measurement is taken, it should immediately be written in proper space on the order form.
Use the tape measure which has been placed around the waist parallel to the floor and pinned in position during outlining. The point at which the teeth of the buckle grip the tape measure is the exact Waist Masurement (see Fig. 61). Leave tape in place until all measurements have been taken.
Measure around figure so tape is just underneath the pin at fullest part of breast and parallel to the waist tape measure. Tape measure must follow the curves of the breasts, with client holding tape measure in between breasts as shown in Figure 62.
When measuring for Moderate Uplift (see Fig. 63), have client hold tape to follow the contour of the Breast Control Support. When the figure is controlled for Moderate Uplift, the Breast Control Support will naturally not extend as deeply between the breasts as when the figure is controlled for Normal or accentuated Uplift, and the measurement will not be as large.
Although the same figure is shown in Figures 62, 63 and 64, the difference in the control makes the Bust Measurement different in each case, Support Without Uplift (Fig. 64) being the smallest of the three.
Measure straight down from the pin at back to middle of the tape at waist (see Fig. 65)
Measure from the pin at back straight over the left shoulder to the pin at top edge in front (see Fig: 66). This measurement determines the length of shoulder straps.
Remove pin at back.
Note : When ordering over-shoulder cushioning with "W" Shoulder Straps (see pages 126 and 127) be sure you do not make the Length Top to Waist at back of the breast support too long: If this measurement is too long the Length Over. Shoulder measurement will be short and the shoulder strap will be too short to accommodate the over shoulder cushioning. When this feature is ordered with "W" Shoulder Straps; the Length Over Shoulder measurement should be not less than 10 inches.
Measure down from pin at top to pin at peak (see Fig. 67).
Measure down from the pin at top to the pin under breast, making sure tape follows contour of breast (see Fig. 68). Press the tape back to the body at the under-bust but do not press the tape up under the breast. This length includes the previous measurement.
Note: The Length Top to Peak will generally be slightly more than one-half the Length Top to Under-Bust.
Ask client to hold end of tape measure at pin at top. Then, measure down from this pin to the centre of the tape at waist. Hold tape with your index finger at pin under the breast to be sure tape follows the exact contour of the figure (see Fig. 69). This length includes both of the previous measurements.
Remove pin at top.
Measure from centre-front, starting the tape measure well in between the breasts, to the pin at peak of breast (see Fig. 70).
Before taking this measurement, check position of the corset bone placed at under-arm during outlining. It must be vertical and in line with the centre of armpit. Measure from centre-front, starting the tape measure well in between the breasts, to front edge of bone at under-arm. Pass tape just under pin at peak of breast, following the contour of the breast. Keep tape parallel with waist tape (see Fig. 71).
Remove pin at peak of breast.
In line with the pin under breast, measure from centre-front to front edge of bone at under-arm. Keep tape measure parallel with waist tape (see Fig. 72).
Remove pin under breast.
Breasts controlled for Normal or accentuated Uplift require 2 or more inches of development in each pocket, depending on the size of the breasts. This " development " is the amount of fullness in each pocket, and is determined by subtracting the Centre-Front to Under-Arm at Under-Bust measurement from the Centre-Front to Under-Arm at Bust measurement.
Over the tape measure at waistline, measure from centre-front to front edge of bone at under-arm (see Fig. 73).
Note : The Breast Control Support and the tape measure at waistline should be left on the client for outlining and measuring for the body support.
Before starting to outline for the body support, ask your client if she is tired and wishes to sit down. If so, ask her to sit down slowly, assisting her if necessary, and at the same time slightly loosen the tape on thigh sections. Be careful not to loosen tape more than is necessary for your client to be comfortably seated.
Assist her as she stands and retighten the tape on thigh sections.