CHAPTER 8

DESCRIPTION OF SPENCER BREAST SUPPORTS

All women whether slender, medium or stout require breast supports that are designed to control and support the figure properly above the waistline. A Spencer Breast Support, when worn with a Spencer Body Support, gives the breasts proper support and continues the graceful lines established by the body support.

Spencer Breast Supports are designed to provide different degrees of uplift, according to individual figure needs and the preference of each client. For greatest health and style benefits, Spencer Technicians recommend a support which holds the breasts in the position and contours of the normal, youthful figure.

The proper support of the breasts provided by Spencer Breast Supports, is extremely beneficial to health by preventing the breaking down of the tissues caused by the weight of the unsupported breasts. Without adequate support, there is often congestion which may interfere with proper circulation.

The different kinds of Spencer Breast Supports are explained on the following pages. This enables you to explain to your client which support will best meet her requirements. With that information, and figure description and measurements you provide, Spencer Technicians create the exact support needed for the client's individual figure.

Special Items-Breast Supports

Adjustment Tucks : Some laundering processes will shrink almost any material. If laundering instructions printed in the booklet No. 515 are followed, the shrinkage will be negligible. However, to allow for any shrinkage which may occur through careless or incorrect laundering processes, vertical tucks can be ordered at extra charge in all breast supports except the Maternity and Sleeping Breast Supports. If necessary, these tucks can easily be let out by the client.

The description of each breast support mentions special items which are optional. Description of these items follows :—

Fastening : All Spencer Breast Supports, except the Maternity Breast Support, are regularly made to hook at back. This is most practical for proper adjustment of the breast support on the figure. Clients who are unable to fasten hooks at back should put the brassiere around the figure and fasten with hooks and eyes in front, then twist the brassiere around at waist level until the hooks are at the back. Lean forward putting arms into shoulder straps. Lift breasts into pockets, pull bottom of brassiere down over corset. To unfasten reverse the process. Back Hook, Front Hook or Side Hook can be ordered if preferred. To order check in the spaces so marked " Front Hook " or " Side Hook " on the order form.


Fig. 117

Ribbon Shoulder Straps : Ribbon Shoulder Straps (see Fig. 117) are used on breast supports except when " W " Shoulder Straps are ordered.

Ribbon Shoulder Straps adjust by means of slides. The straps are threaded through the slides as shown in Figure 117. Straps are tightened by pulling from underneath. To loosen straps, place a finger at the top of the slide and press downward.


Fig. 118

" W " Shoulder Straps: Are wide shoulder straps of soft satin, helpful in cases where the breasts are heavy, the posture poor, or where the shoulders have been made sensitive by incorrectly-fitting breast supports which place all the strain on the shoulders. These straps are called " W " Shoulder Straps. See Fig. 118.

To order, check " W " Shoulder Straps" on your order form (extra charge see price list).

Elastic-Insert Shoulder Straps:

Ribbon Shoulder Straps are supplied with an elastic insert which is attached to the top of the breast support at back.

There are several advantages to elastic inserts :

1. The stretch of elastic in the shoulder strap allows greater freedom of motion of the shoulders without additional strain on the shoulder straps.

2. There is less tendency for the breast support to be pulled out of its proper position at back by shoulder motion.

3. There is less strain on the breast support itself where the shoulder straps are attached at front and back.

Elastic inserts in shoulder straps are not usually recommended for women with large or pendulous breasts, because the weight of the breasts may tend to stretch the elastic to the point where little stretch is left and the usefulness of the elastic is limited. " W " Shoulder Straps should be used.

Straps With Over-Shoulder Cushioning: For clients with sensitive shoulders or those who have a groove formed by incorrectly fitted breast supports, special cushioning for shoulder straps is available for insertion in " W " Shoulder Straps.

This cushioning is concealed in that part of the straps which rests on the shoulders. While it is placed in approximately the correct position in designing, some slight adjustment in the location of the cushioning may be necessary when the breast support is fitted. Since the cushioning is not fastened into the shoulder straps, it is easy to slide it in the straps so it is in the correct location for each individual client. The cushioning is reinforced so it can be moulded to the most satisfactory curve in each case. The curve should be such that the ends of the cushion will receive more pressure than the centre, which should be over the sensitive part of the shoulders.

To order, check, " 'W' Shoulder Straps and 'over-Shoulder Cushioning ' " on your order form (extra charge—see price list).


Fig. 119

Built-up Shoulders : This feature is excellent for the figure with heavy breasts or unusual flesh development at the shoulder ; for adolescent girls or young women who have prominent shoulder blades and heavy breasts ; also for those who need breast support for maternity, nursing, or sleeping wear. In addition to controlling shoulder flesh, Built-up Shoulders distribute the pull of the shoulder straps over a large area (see Fig. 119). Built-up Shoulders may be ordered on Spencer Breast Supports Nos. 140, 150 and 160. To outline for Built-up Shoulders, see page 122.

The Length Top to Waist at Back Measurement determines where the top of the built-up portion will end. From the shoulder, the centre-back is curved down to a normal height. To order, check " Built-up Shoulders " on your order form.

Décolleté Back: A support with décolleté back is cut lower than usual at centre-back. The breast support will be made as high at shoulder as Length Top to Waist at Back Measurement. Décolleté back is suitable only for figures with firm flesh, without excessive flesh development above waist at back.

To order, write " Décolleté Back " on the order form under Additional Instructions.

Figures with large, pendulous breasts require the higher back, which helps support the weight of the breasts, Décolleté back, in such cases, should not be ordered.

ELASTIC PANEL DOWN BACK OF BRASSIERES

An elastic panel 3" wide can be ordered for a small extra charge. This extends down the back of the Brassiere and is an excellent feature as it allows for fluctuation in body size, permits expansion of the lungs, and is especially good for singers who require several inches for expansion when singing. Can always be replaced at small cost.

SPENCER BREAST SUPPORTS PROVIDE THESE BENEFITS AND FEATURES

  1. Individually designed, just as abdominal and back supports are, to the client's requirements.
  2. Designed with any degree of accentuation desired.
  3. Choice of openings—back, front, or side.
  4. Choice of shoulder straps to suit individual needs.
  5. 140 and 160 designed either Short or Long style.
  6. Maternity style adjustable to increasing size of figure.
  7. For maternity, the regular Hooks and Eyes Fastening at Front may be used when nursing.
  8. Designed for sleeping wear to continue daytime benefits.
  9. Breasts are supported without undue strain on shoulders.
  10. May be designed with lightweight Breast Form (to match patient's normal breast) where one breast has been removed, or with two Breast Forms of any desired size, when both breasts have been removed.
  11. May be designed for wear with Breast Forms for under- developed breasts.
  12. Comfort and positive support without compression.
  13. Encourage erect posture and improvement of circulation.

140 Breast Support

The 140 Breast Support is best suited to those wishing the breast contour of the youthful figure. It provides healthful support and separation of the breasts and its lightness makes it especially appealing to women who desire a light breast support. Women with large breasts may prefer less accentuation, which is available in other Spencer Breast Supports.

Where clients desire definite pointed contour, print " Pointed Pockets " on the order form, under Additional Instructions.

Measurements: All measurements provided for on Order Form 648 A must be given.

Shoulder Straps: Ribbon Shoulder Straps are regularly supplied. " W " Shoulder Straps may be ordered (extra charge—see price list).

Adjusting Slides : Adjusting slides on the Ribbon Shoulder Straps are attached at top of the breast pockets as shown in Figure 117.

Built-up Shoulders: Built-up Shoulders may be ordered on either the 140 Long or Short Breast Support.

Control of Figure : The breasts should be controlled for the accentuation and separation which is provided by the 140 Breast Support.

140 Long Breast Support


Fig. 128

The 140 Long Breast Support (see fig. 120) is recommended for those who wish a long breast support which provides definite accentuation and separation of the breasts. It is made to extend below waist.

Elastic gores are inserted at the bottom at each side-front. Back panel of elastic is recommended (extra charge).

Hold-Down Tabs at front and back are provided.

Fastening: Regularly made to hook at centre-back. Upon request can be designed to hook at side.

Décolleté Back: When " Décolleté Back " is ordered the breast support will be cut down to about 2˝ to 4 inches above the waist at centre-back depending on Height at Back. To order, write " Décolleté Back " on order form under Additional Instructions.

To Order: Check " Long " on order form.

Adjustment : See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

140 Short Breast Support


Fig. 121

The 140 Short Breast Support (see Fig. 121) is recommended for small and medium breasts, for growing girls, an for sports wear, for those wishing accentuation and separation of the breasts. This breast support extends approximately 1 to 2˝ inches below the breasts, depending upon the size of the figure: It does not extend to the waistline. The Length Top to Waist and Length Top to Waist at Back Measurements must be taken down to the waistline, even though the breast support will not extend to the waistline.

The 140 Short Breast Support may be designed with eyelets and lacers at each under-arm for maternity or sleeping wear (extra charge—see price list).

When designed for maternity wear, it is regularly made to hook at centre-front. To have it made to hook at back, write " Back Hook " on the order form under Additional Instructions. When designed with centre-front fastening, hooks can be unfastened as far down as is necessary for nursing. Lower hooks remain fastened.

When designed for sleeping wear, it is regularly made to hook at centre-back, but may be made to hook at front. Check " Front Hooks " on the order form.

The 140 Short Breast Support is best suited to figures of a size which can be controlled with the Extra-Small, Small or Medium Breast Control Support front sections not those which require the Large front section.

An elastic gore is inserted at lower edge, at centre-front (see Fig. 121).

Fastening : Regularly made to hook at centre-back. Upon request it can be designed to hook at front or side.

To Order: Check " Short " on order form. To order the 140 Short Breast Support for maternity or sleeping wear, write. " Maternity " or " Sleeping " on the order form under Additional Instructions.

Elastic panel at back is recommended (extra charge).

Adjustment: See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

150 Breast Support


Fig. 122

The 150 Breast Support (see Fig. 122) is best suited for support with moderate accentuation of the breasts. This design provides a rounded bust line. It is generally made with lace or soft breast pockets which help to give a soft, rounded contour. Other Spencer Breast Supports give more definite support for heavy, pendulous breasts.

The 150 Breast Support extends below waist. It is made with Hold-Down Tabs at front and back.

Fastening : The 150 Breast Support is Regularly made to hook at back. On request, it may be made to hook at front or side.

Breast Pockets: Lace breast pockets or pockets of Rayon can be ordered.

Shoulder Straps : Ribbon Shoulder Straps (see Fig. 122) are regularly supplied. " W " Shoulder Straps may be ordered (extra charge—see price list).

Adjusting Slides : On all sizes of the 150 Breast Support, the adjusting slides are attached with a single ribbon loop, as shown in Figure 122.

Décolleté Back : When décolleté back is ordered, the breast support will be cut down to about 2˝ inches above waist at centre-back. To order, write " Décolleté Back " on order form under Additional Instructions.

Measurements: All measurements provided for on Order Form 648a must be given.

Built-up Shoulders : These may be ordered when desired.

Adjustment: See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

160 Breast Support

The 160 Breast Support gives unequalled results where the breasts are large and heavy. Especially so, where there is any sag. It does not accentuate the breasts as much as the 140 does. When desired it may be ordered to give a conservative bust line. When ordered for normal accentuation, it can be designed in any of the following styles : Long, Short, Maternity and Sleeping.

Measurements: All measurements provided for on Order Form 648a must be given.

Shoulder Straps : Ribbon Shoulder Straps are regularly supplied. " W " Shoulder Straps may be ordered (extra charge—see price list).

Adjusting Slides: The adjusting slides on Ribbon Shoulder Straps are attached to the top of the breast pockets with ribbon arranged as shown in Figure 123, page 134.

Built-up Shoulders : These may be ordered on all styles and are always advisable on breast supports for Maternity, Nursing or Sleeping Wear.

For Normal Accentuation

(Long-Short-Maternity-Sleeping)

When ordered for normal accentuation, the 160 Breast Support is designed to support the breasts in a healthful position and provide separation.

Inner Lining : When designed for normal accentuation, the 160 Breast Support is made with some form of inner lining or reinforce ment below the breast pockets. The kind of inner lining (or reinforcement) needed will be determined by the technicians from the description of figure and measurements.

160 Long Breast Support


Fig. 123

The 160 Long Breast Support (see Fig. 123) is especially suitable for heavy or pendulous breasts, and as an aid in the treatment of breast conditions. It is made to extend below waist.

Elastic gores are inserted at the bottom, at each side-front.

Elastic panel at back is recommended (extra charge).

Each breast support is made with Hold-Down Tabs at front and back.

Fastening : Regularly made to hook at centre-back. Upon request it can be designed to hook at front or side.

Décolleté Back: For small or medium figures without excessive flesh development above waist at back, décolleté back may be ordered. In such cases the centre-back will be about 2˝ inches above waist. To order, write " Décolleté Back " on order form under Additional Instructions.

To Order. Check " Long " on order form.

Adjustment. See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

160 Short Breast Support


Fig. 124

The 160 Short Breast Support (see Fig. 124) is recommended for small and medium breasts, for growing girls, for sports wear, and for those who wish less accentuation than is provided by the 140 Breast Support. It is best suited to figures which can be controlled with the extra-small, small or medium Breast Control Support front sections, not those which require the large front section.

This is a short support made to extend approximately 1˝ inches below the breasts. It does not extend down to the waistline. It is best to leave the length to the judgment of the Spencer Technicians. However, it can be made 1 inch longer than the regular length if requested under Additional Instructions on the order form. In all cases the Length Top to Waist and the Length Top to Waist at Back Measurements must be taken down to the waistline.

Fastening. Regularly made to hook at centre-back. Upon request it can be designed to hook at front or side.

To Order. Check " Short " on the order form.

Adjustment. See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

160 Breast Support for Maternity Wear


Fig. 125

The 160 Maternity Breast Support (see Fig. 125) provides healthful support at a time when such support is most needed.

It is a short breast support which does not extend down to the waistline. Side lacers, which may be let out as the figure enlarges, are provided. The breast support will fit perfectly during the entire period of pregnancy, preventing constriction which might otherwise interfere with circulation.

Spencer Technicians will allow for enlargement of the breasts by extending the top of the breast pockets slightly higher. than the measurements given on the order.

No adjustment tucks are provided.

Fastening. The 160 Maternity Breast Support is regularly made to hook at centre-front. It may be made to hook at back. Write " Back Hook " on the order form under Additional Instructions. With centre-front fastening, hooks can be unfastened as far down as is necessary for nursing. Lower hooks remain fastened.

Built-up Shoulders. These are especially recommended on all maternity breast supports (see Fig. 119, page 128).

To Order. Check " Maternity " on the order form.

Adjustment. See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515, and instructions for lacing " 160 Breast Support for Sleeping and Maternity Wear " on page 227.

160 Breast Support for Sleeping Wear


Fig. 126

The 160 Breast Support for Sleeping Wear (see Fig. 126) is designed to continue at night the beneficial and healthful support provided by Spencer Breast Supports worn throughout the day. It is especially helpful to women with heavy, soft, or pendulous breasts.

It is a short breast support and does not extend down to the waistline. A lacer at each side allows the support to readjust itself on the figure as the wearer twists or turns while sleeping. These lacers also make it possible to let out the lower part of the the breast support to allow for any change in the diaphragm when the figure is in a reclining position.

No adjustment tucks are required.

Fastening. It is regularly made to hook at centre-back, but may be made to hook at front. Check " Front Hook " on the order form.

Built-up Shoulders. These are especially recommended on this breast support (see Fig. 119, page 128).

Control of Figure. When measuring for this breast support, the figure below waist should be controlled just as if you were measuring for any other breast support. Spencer Technicians will make allowance for the fact that the lower part of the figure will be uncontrolled when the breast support is worn. Top of the pockets will be made slightly higher than measurements given to allow for changed position of breasts when client is reclining.

To Order. Check " Sleeping " on the order form.

Adjustment. See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515, and instructions for lacing " 160 Breast Supports for Sleeping and Maternity Wear " on page 227.

160 Breast Support

For Conservative Bust Line


Fig. 127

The 160 Breast Support for Conservative Bust Line is for the woman with large and heavy breasts who wants a conservative, rounded bust line with the breasts accentuated even less than in the regular 160 Breast Support.

It is a long breast support, extending below waist. It is made with Hold-Down Tabs at front and back.

Fastening. Regularly made to hook at centre-back. If Front Hook or Side Hook is desired, check the order form.

Décolleté Back. When decollete back is ordered, the breast support will be made as high at the shoulders as the Length Top to Waist at Back Measurement, and about 2½ inches above waist at centre-back.

Control of Figure. See page 49 for instructions on controlling for this breast support.

Adjustment. See " Adjustment of Breast Supports " in Booklet No. 515.

500 Ready-to-Wear Breast Support


Fig. 127a

The 500 Breast Support is recommended for figures having medium or large breasts and requiring extra height to control surplus flesh at front and shoulder. This Breast Support provides medium bust uplift.

Description. Sections over breasts and at shoulder are extended higher than usual to control flesh at these points and to give smooth figure lines. The top of the Breast Support finishes very near to the top of the shoulder so that only a short piece of elastic is needed to form a shoulder strap, which is neither adjustable nor detachable. In some cases it may be necessary to shorten the shoulder strap elastic. If the Breast Support seems too low at the underarm the Breast Support should be removed from the figure, the shoulder strap elastic taken up temporarily. Then place the Breast Support on the figure again. It will be found that this makes quite a difference in the fit of the Breast Support in cases where it must be worn higher on the figure.

Opens at back or side. The 500 Breast Support is made in only one length, which is about 3 inches at front, graduated to 2¼ inches below waist at back.

Measurements. The description, waist and bust measurements must be given. Do not give other measurements. The bust measurement must be at least 6 inches larger than the waist. Be sure to control the figure with breasts in an uplifted position.

Material. Entire Breast Support is made in self material throughout as listed in the price list.


Description of supports for men