The problem of corsetry is divided into a number of branches. First in importance of these branches is the correct method of taking the various measurements that are required for the different types of garments for corsetry.
In order to well understand the various types of measurements it is very important to be fully acquainted with the knowledge of height and width proportions which are given in the following pages. It is also very important to understand the various measurements required for each type of garment. The girdle, for instance, which is a short garment covering the body from the waist down, only requires the waist, hip and length measurements. As the average corset is a garment covering the same parts of the body as the girdle, with the slight difference that the corset is a trifle above the waist line, it therefore requires the same measurements as the girdle. The brassiere and bandeau cover the body from the waist up to the bust. These garments, therefore, require the breast, bust and waist measurements. The corselette, being a garment covering the body from the bust down to a certain length below the hip, requires the measurements of breast, bust, waist, hip, under arm length and full length. For corsets and corselettes it is best to take two hip measurements; one 6 inches below waist line and one 9 inches below waist line. For correct method of taking measurements see the lesson which describes such method.
Before going any further on this subject, the author wishes to explain the importance of taking the breast measurement for corselettes, brassieres and bandeaux because this measurement is quite strange. In order to make the question clear, understand that if, for instance, we take a size 36 woman in question, you will find that among ten women, all size 36, each have different bust measurements. It is therefore, advisable to know that a pattern for the above mentioned garment shall be drafted directly by the size which is the breast measurement of the body.
For regular proportionate sizes for manufacturing corselettes, bandeaux and brassieres, a size 36 pattern shall be drafted for a standard size 39 inch bust, but for the present time a pattern shall be drafted for a size 36 body. Other proportionate measurements necessary for complete garments will be found in the table of proportions. It shall be understood that patterns drafted for regular manufacturing use are to be drafted according to regular proportionate measurements which are obtained from the height and width proportions or from live models of good proportions. For individual use, patterns shall be drafted only by special measurements for which special instruction is given in the following pages.