COMPLETE BANDEAU WITH UPLIFT

LESSON 9

To begin the bandeau with uplift, start the usual foundation with some exceptions, which are as follows: 5 to 6 is the first side line which is measured 1/3 of 36 from 1 to 5 and 2 to 6. Take up each side of 5 to 7 and 8, ¾ inch, and the same from 6 to 9 and 6 to 10. Then draw lines from 7 to 9 and 8 to 10:

The backs for bandeaux with bust uplifts are, as a rule, very short. Therefore, divide from 11 to 12, making 13, at the center back, and divide the under arm length from 8 to 10, making 14. Connect 13 to 14 out to 15. Then measure from 13 to 18, 1½ inches, from 14 to 16, 2 inches, and draw a line from 16 across to 17. Then connect 16 to 18.

To make the side seam, measure from 9 to 20, ¾ inch, and from 10 to 19, also inch. Connect 19 to 14 and 20 to 15. Now make front dart by measuring from 3 to 22 and 4 to 23, 1/8th of size, amounting to 42 inches for size 36. Connect 22, and 23. Then draw a line from 17 to 4 for long waist line. 24 is half of distance between 22 and 23. 26 is at the dart line at the long waist line and, therefore; measure from 26 to 27, ½ inch, and from 26 to 28, 1½ inches. Connect 27 and 28 to 24 and see that the length from 24 to 28 shall be the same length as from 24 to 27. From 4 to 29 raise up one inch. Connect 29 to 27, as shown on the diagram, and finish with a curve from 28 to 17.

To finish top of front, lower from 3 to 32, 1½ inch. Connect 32 to 22 and 22 to 15 and then make curve from 32 to 21 towards 22, 31 and 15. This completes the front with a dart.

To make a bust uplift with this front, make a half circle by pivoting 22 with 24 to 3 and 30, which brings a half circle from 3 to 24, 31 and 30 and from 30 back to 3. Note that 31 is half the distance between 30 and 24. This point may be used for making a perfect curve of the bust, as shown on the diagram.

When this draft is completed, trace off the half circle or bust uplift according to curve as shown and follow instructions for bust uplift as follows: Follow separate diagram given underneath the bandeau draft. Note that the top line of the bust uplift is from 2 to 3 of which half is marked by 1. Now circle by 1 from 2, 4 and 3 and then divide between 2 and 4, making 5 ; divide beteween 3 and 4, making 6, and connect lines from 1 to 5, 1 to 4 and 1 to 6. Divide the spaces of the lines from the darts between 1 to 6, making 7 ; 1 to 4, making 11; and 1 to 5, making 8. Note the amount taken out for darts by dotted lines at both sides of 4, 5 and 6, as explained before. The amount that is to be taken out depends upon the over-amount that is found when matching this space to the space of the bandeau cut out at front and such amount shall be equally taken out at 4, 5 and 6, as shown on diagram.

If we want to use the entire space of the cup between 2, 12, 5, 4, 6 to 3 the entire cup shall be compared with the cut-out space of the front, as mentioned before, from where the cup is originally taken and which is only supposed to be matched in for the space of the front from 31 to 24 and 32. If more of a shape is desired for the cup at the inner part of the front, I inch shall be deducted from 2 to 12 and instead of making the curve from 2 to 10, the curve shall be made from 12 to X up to 10.

Complete Bandeau with Uplift

Therefore, a lesser amount will be found for taking out the darts at points explained before where darts are to be taken out. To make the adding of the curve, as shown, on the top of this cup, divide the space between 2 and 3 into 3 equal parts; from 3 to 9, 1/3rd, from 9 to X, another 1/3rd. Raise from 9 to 10,1 inch, and curve from 3 to 10, 10 to X and from X down to 12. This will complete the bandeau with a bust uplift.

Do not forget to allow seams all around the cup or bust uplift and also at the front where the bust uplift is to be sewed in, as shown on the diagram.