To begin to draft a pattern according to special measurements it is very important that we place the measurements in front of us in every case, and we shall, therefore, place before us the following measurements:
Arm Blade ........ 26 inches
Waist Length ... 16 inches Breast ........... 44 inches Bust ............... 47 inches |
Waist .................... 40 inches
First Hip .............. 46 inches Second Hip .......... 47 inches Under arm length ... 8¾ inches |
Length .... 16 inches |
Now let us begin to draft the foundation lines according to these measurements as follows: Draw a line from A to 2 and from A to 0. Now measure from A to 4, 16 inches waist length, and from 4 up to l, 8¾ inches under arm length. Measure from 4 to 5, 6 inches for first hip length; from 4 to 6, 9 inches for second hip length; and from 4 to 2, 16 inches for full length of corselette. Now draw lines from A to 0, 1 to 3, 4 to 7, 5 to 8, 6 to 9 and 2 to 10.
Now make the tight fitting center back line. Measure from 1 to 11, finch; from 4 to 12, 2 inches; 5 to 13, ½ inches; and draw lines from 11 to 12, 12 to 13 down to 14. This will finish the center back fitting line.
Now measure the arm blade. Measure from 11 to 15, 13 inches which is ½ of 26 inches arm blade measurement, and draw a straight line down from 15 to 16. To be sure that the line is straight, the space from 2 to 16 should be the same as from 1 to 15.
Now finish the entire foundation outline by measuring half of the bust from 11 to 3, making 23½ inches for a 47 inch bust measurement, and allow from 3 to 17, 3 inches for seams. Draw a line down from 17 to 7 and 8. Then extend from 7 to 18, ¾ inch, and draw a line down from, 17 towards 18 down to 10.
Now raise the height of the front with 1 inch from 15 to 19 and 17 to 20 and draw a line from 19 to 20. Now lower the back part of the breast line from 11 to 21 and from 15 to 22 and connect lines from 21 to 22. This completes the beginning outline of a special foundation draft which shall be continued withe the usual form of a draft of corselette which is explained in the following lesson.