SHORT STOUT CORSELETTE

LESSON 20

To begin the draft of a pattern for a short stout corselette, note the difference in measurements. Note the extremely short under arm length and the short full length for corselette. Note that in this lesson the principle is the same as in the previous lesson with the exception of the different measurements that are used for a short stout person. We shall now use the following measurements:

Arm Blade ........ 25 inches
Waist Length ... 14½ inches
Breast ........... 40 inches
Bust ............... 43 inches
Waist ....................36 inches
First Hip .............. 44 inches
Second Hip ........... 45 inches
Under Arm Length ... 7½ inches
Length from waist as desired.

Before beginning to draft, note that in this lesson the diagram does not show the waist length. The reason for this is the difference between the underarm length and balance of waist length is used for shoulder strap length which will be explained in greater detail in the following pages.

Draw a line from 1 to 5 and 1 to 6 and measure from 1 to 2, 7½ inches under arm length, from 2 to 3, 6 inches hip length, and from 2 to 4, 9 inches second hip length. Then measure from 2 to 5, length of corselette. Now draw lines across, as usual from 1 to 6, 2 to 7, 3 to 8, 4 to 9 and 5 to 10.

Now begin the center back part. Measure from 1 to 15, 1 inch; 2 to 16, 2 inches; 3 to 17, 1½ inches; and connect lines from 15 to 16 to 17 down to 18. Lower the back part with 1 inch from 1 to 14 and 11 to 13 and draw a line across from 14 to 13. Measure from 16 to 19 on the back waist line, 1/12 of 40 inches breast measurement amounting to 33/8 inches, and measure from 20 to 21, 1 inch more or 43/8 inches. Then measure from 17 to 22 on the first hip line, 37/8 inches, which is ½ inch more than the space from 16 to 19. Draw a line down from 21 to 19, 19 to 22 and 23.

Now begin the side seam. Measure ½ of 25 inches arm blade amounting to 12½ inches from 15 to 11. Then measure the space from 1 to 11 and measure the same amount from 5 to 28 and draw a line from 11 to 28. Take out from 13 to 27 and 28 to 29, ¾ inch, and connect a line from 27 to 29. Now take out at waist line from 30 to 31, ½ inch, and from 32 to 33, ¾ inch, and connect a line from 31 to 27 and from 33 to 13.

Now draw lines for the hip by crossing lines from 31 to 34 and from 33 to 35 and curve for hips from 31 to 34 down to 28 and from 33 to 35 down to 29, as shown on diagram.

Now finish the front. Measure from 15 to X, ½ of 43 inches bust measurement amounting to 21½ inches. Add from X to 6, 3 inches for seams and square a line down from 6 to 7. Measure from 7 to 36, ¾ inch, and draw a line from 6 to 36 down to 8, 9 and 10.

Now make tight fitting front by measuring from 6 to 37 and 10 to 38, 1/8 of breast measurement of 40 inches amounting to 5 inches and connect a line from 37 to 38. Measure from 36 to 39, ¾ inch, and draw a line for long waist line from 33 to 39. Now divide the space between 37 and 40, making 41. Take out from 40 to 42, ¼ inch, and from 40 to 43, inch, and connect a straight line from 42 down to 38 and curve from 42 up to 41 and 37.

Short Stout Corselette

Now curve for the inner part of the bust part at the front from 37 to 44, 41 to 43, as shown on diagram. Now draw a square line down from 43 to 45, as shown on diagram.

Now finish top front. Lower from 6 to 46 at edge of front, ¾ inch, and curve from 46 to X, X to 37, 49 to 13, as shown on diagram. If additional division of parts is desired for the extremely wide part of the inner back and inner front, take half of space at the back part from 21 to 27, making 53; between 25 and 31, making 54; and at the bottom from 26 to 28, making 55. Then draw a line from 53 to 54 down to 55, as shown on diagram. The same can be obtained at the front part by taking half of 13 to 37, making 49. Take half of space between 33 to 43, making 50, and from 28 to 45, making 51, and draw a line from 49 and 50 to 51 and take out ¼ inch from 49 to 52, as shown on diagram. Remember to allow seams where additional seams are made at the back from 53, 54 and 55 and on the f ront part from 49, 50 and 51.

For easy fitting garments for short stout women it is advisable to cut the pattern across the waist line as shown on diagram. Note the slight curve at all parts across the waist line, and also the slight space taken out on the curve of these three parts. At the front edge part make a long waist curve, as shown on diagram, from 42 to 48.

When these parts are cut across it is understood that special seams are required in all cases, except when the person is very short. In that case these seams do not have to be allowed. Otherwise, this pattern is cut out as explained in previous lesson.