In order to properly master bust uplifts, prepare the front parts of the corselette or bandeau where such bust uplift is desired, with the exact shape marked on such front parts of the pattern as illustrated with parts 1 and 2 which are the two front parts of the cor selette. Part 1 represents the edge of front and part 2 represents the inner part of the front. Note that the two parts are placed together.
To begin to work, first copy the edge part of the front from 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 5. Place next to it the inner part of the front and copy from 6 to 7, 8, 9 and 10. Note that 4 and 7 are the strongest parts of the bust effect on these two parts which is actually the height of the bust as the pattern is coming off from the draft. Take half of space between 5 and 8, making 11. This is the top part of the front where the bust part expands.
Now make a circle by pivoting from point 11 from 4 to 1 and 7 to 12. Trace or cut out the upper parts of this bust effect from 5 to 1 and 1 to 4 up to 5 and the inner part from 8 to 7 and 12 and place them separately, making the various kinds of bust uplifts as illustrated in the following ways.
Suppose we desire to obtain a bust uplift as illustrated on the insert of diagram. Let us say that we have the parts cut out as described before. Produce the bust uplift as illustrated with 3 darts on the diagram 3 and 4. Digram 3 represents the outer front part of bust uplift and diagram 4 is bust uplift of the inner part of the front. Split part 3, as shown, from 9 to 2, and split part 4, as shown, from 10 to 4. Mark them on face to face, as shown on diagram, spreading apart the space between 3 and 5, of which the center is X. A line can then be drawn up to XX. The space from 2 to XX is the same as from 2 to X. Note that the amount that is taken off the dart from both sides of X to 3 and 5 and boht sides of 10 is the surplus that is not desired in order to sew this bust uplift into the front parts from where they have originally been taken. It may, therefore, be understood that the stronger we want the bust uplifts to come out when sewn in the garment, the more darts are required, and all that is necessary is to spread the parts more and take the darts out in the manner illustrated.
For a high raised bust uplift at the top, we shall draw a circle, as shown on diagram, and curve according to shape desired. Note No. 7 which is half space between 1 and XX. There we take off about ¾ inch and curve from XX to 1 by deducting at 7, ¾ inch below circle curve. At 8, which is towards the inner part of the front of the garment, we deduct 1 inch and curve according to dotted lines from 9 to 8 to XX. This will complete the bust uplift as given on the illustration. Before going any further, note that seams are to be allowed at bottom part of bust uplift where it is to be sewn back into the garment from where it was originally taken.
To make more valuable experiments with bust uplifts follow diagram 5 and 6 which is the same pattern cut out from the front and back. Note that these parts are placed together on the top at 9 and 10 and, therefore, the space between 8 and 11 is the entire space that comes out between the two bust uplifts as cut out from the original pattern. This will make a bust uplift with 1 dart at the bottom. If additional dars are desired at both sides, raise from 7 to 13 and 12 to 14 about 1 inch each side which will give additional darts for a stronger bust uplift, or if bust uplift is desired with gathering instead of darts.
If a bust uplift is desired with large expansion it may be obtained by large darts or gathering. Take the same bust uplift patterns as taken out before and split each apart as illustrated in the first outline of the bust uplift. Spread each strongly in larger space which is illustrated by 7 and 8, front part of the bust uplift, and 9 and 10, the inner part of the bust uplift. In such case, fill in the space top part from 16 to 25 with a slight curved line. Do not forget to allow for seams at the bottom or all around the bust uplift to be sewn in at the place where such bust uplifts are replaced into the parts from which they were originally taken.