The maternity corset is a simple but, at the same time, a very important garment to design. Great care shall be taken when taking such measurements. It is understood that a corset only requires waist, hip and length measurements but before taking the waist measurement for maternity use, a tape measure shall be placed straight around the body and not upwards. A measurement shall be taken in the center front for the extension or rise necessary in the front from the straight waist line up for such persons. An average space of at least 2 inches shall be regularly added for such extension from the natural height of such corset which is to be gradually lost towards the side seam. It is needless to say that this particular garment has a much shorter back raise than the usual corset.
The measurements used for this corset are as follows:
|Waist ....... 40 inches
Hip ........... 43 inches
Length .... 14 inches
Now begin to draft and remember that the usual method of drafting corsets will be of great help in this garment. Draw, as usual, a line from 1 to Z and 1 to 3 and 4. Measure from 1 to 3, half of 40 inches waist measurement amounting to 20 inches; and from 3 to 4, 3 inches for darts. DraW a line up from 4 to 5 and measure from 4 to 5, 1 inch. Divide the space from 1 to 4, making 6, the side seam, and connect 5 to 6 with a line. Then measure from 1 to 7, 6 inches hip length.
From 1 to 2 is 14 inches length. Now measure from 6 to 13 and 5 to 11, 14 inches length. Measure from 7 to 9, ½ of 43 inches hip measurement amounting to 21½ inches, and draw a line from 5 to 9 down to 11 and make the bottom curve of the corset from 2 to 13 to 11.
Now begin to make front part of the corset. Raise from 1 to 15, 6 to 14 and 5 to 12, 2 inches for regular corset extension and connect lines from 15 to 14 and 14 to 12. Then raise the special increase for, maternity corsets up in the front from 15 to 16 with 2 inches and connect 16 to 14. At the same time extend from 16 to 17 with 1 inch for front extension and connect 17 down to the bottom of the front to 37 or down to 2 if a gore insert is not desired. Lower at 17 with ¾ inch to 0 and curve, as shown on diagram. Divide the bottom space from 2 to 11, making 13, and connect a line from 13 up to 6 and 14.
Now make the front section parts. Measure from 16 to 20, 3 inches, and from 2 to 19, 4inches, and connect a line from 19 to 20. Take half of space from 14 to 18, making 26, and half of space from 13 to 19, making 21. Now draw a line from 21 to 26. Take out each side of 20 and 26, ½ inch, and take out dart as shown on diagram.
Now make back part. Measure from 5 to 3, 3½ inches, and 11 to 23, 4 inches, and draw a line from 23 up to 3 and 22. Divide the space between 3 and 6, making 32, and also divide the space between 13 and 23, making 25. Draw a line from 25 to 32 and 24. Take out each side of 32 to 33 and 34, ¼ inch, and lose curve down to hip line and up to top line towards 24 by taking out 1/8 inch of each side of 24, as shown on diagram. Do the same at 3 ; take out each side of 3 to 35 and 36, ¼ inch, and lose curve to hip line and take out each side of 22, 1/8 inch, making curves as shown on diagram.
Now finish the entire waist part. Take out ¾ inch at each side of center part at 6 to 27 and 28. Take out ½ inch each side of 14 to 29 and 30 and curve, as shown on diagram from 29 to 27 down to 31 and from 30 to 28 down to 31.
Finish the bottom by taking out at the side seam at 13, ¾ inch, each side, and curve up to hip line, as shown on diagram. Then take out ½ inch at each side of the other seams at the bottom; both sides of 19, 21, 25 and 23 and lose curves up to the hip line, as shown on diagram. If lacing in center back is desired, extend straight line up from 4 to 39 and if no lacing is desired extend straight line up from 4 to 5 up to 12.
Now finish top carve of front. 0 is ¾ inch below 17. Curve from 0 to 20 and draw a straight line across. Then curve from 20 to 26 and continue curving from 26 to 30, as shown on diagram. Note that this garment has no seams allowed. Therefore, cut out pattern and allow all necessary seams with the exception of the center front where, as a rule, no seam is required. For gore insert at front, follow instructions given in preceding lessons.