TIGHT LININGS AND BONING

HINTS ON THE CARE AND USE OF THE PADDED FORM

34.   Care of the Padded Form.—A dress form covered and padded in the manner just explained should be kept as clean as possible so that there will be no danger of soiling dainty garments that may be fitted or draped on it.   Therefore, for protecting the form from dust while it is not in use, a muslin or a calico sack similar to a pillow case should be made to slip over it.   Few persons appreciate the necessity of keeping the dress form clean when it looks fresh and new; yet, if it is allowed to stand out where dust will settle on it, it will soon become so dirty as to be a nuisance when fitting anything that soils easily.   The importance of providing a covering for it in the beginning should therefore not be disregarded.

If by chance the form should become dirty, a great deal of the dirt—in fact, all of the surface dirt—may be removed by covering the form entirely with magnesia, letting it stand for 48 hours, and then brushing it briskly with a whisk broom.

35.   Placing Guide Lines on a Padded Form.—when a person possesses a waist, or blouse, that has a good neck line, an excellent plan is to put the waist on the padded dress form and outline the neck line on it with tailor's chalk or with basting thread.   Then, in making waists in the future, it will be known exactly where to mark the line for the neck in fitting.   Frequently, women say, "I didn't intend to get the neck so high," or "The neck is a little lower than I wanted it to be."   Such occurrences will always be avoided if the neck line is marked in the manner just mentioned and then followed in making the garment.   Square or pointed yokes to be used as a guide may also be outlined on the form if desired.

Padded FormPadded Form
Fig, 15

36.   Using, a Padded Form for More Than One Person.   Where there is no great difference in the size and shape of two or more members of a family, it is sometimes advisable to make one padded form answer for all.   Under such circumstances, the form should be selected and padded in the manner just described to meet the requirements of the smallest of those who are to use it.   Then, for each of the others, a covering should be cut and fitted as already explained.   However, the bottom of this covering, as well as the top of the collar and the lower edge of the sleeves, should be finished with bias facing; also, the sleeves should be stitched in and hooks and eyes, spaced 1 in. apart, should be sewed the full length of the opening at the back, so that the finished covering will appear as in Fig. 15, in which are shown a front view (a) and a back view (b) of the covering on a figure.

As a lining of this kind is used merely to slip on a form and thus give the lines of another figure, it is not necessary to finish the seams as in the tight-fitting lining already discussed.   By sewing in the sleeves, as shown, the entire lining may be slipped on the padded form to which the arms are hooked, thus making it possible to utilize the arms, as well as the padded form made for a smaller person.   If the cover is much larger than the padded form, it may be necessary to use tissue paper or cotton to fill out enough to give the desired size.

37.   Galatea Skirt for a Padded Form.—An excellent plan in connection with a padded form is to provide for it a galatea skirt that may be used as a guide in skirt making.   This galatea skirt, or form skirt, as it may be called, should be cut according to the plain foundation-skirt pattern and made with a seam at the center front, one at the center back, and one at each side; also, the hem should be turned so as to be perfectly even and of the desired length.   The seams of the form skirt will serve as a guide in fitting a skirt that is being made, and it will be an easy matter to get the skirt length with accuracy.   In addition, the work of making a skirt shorter or longer will be greatly simplified, for it will be merely a matter of following the bottom line of the form skirt.

Inexpensive unbleached muslin may be used for the form skirt if it is not convenient to use galatea; however, the advantages of using galatea are that it makes a better looking form and that it is firm enough to give a good, even line at the bottom.   Then, too, there is not much danger of the galatea skirt stretching or becoming uneven at the lower edge.


Boning
Remarks
Boned tight lining
Girdles, or waist-line foundations