Front page & Index GB patents
N 7474       A. D. 1912
Date of Application, 27th Mar., 1912-Accepted, 20th June; 1912
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.

improvements in or relating to Corsets or like Articles of Wear.


  I, JULIUS FREDERICK GEMS of Bayford House, Lyndhurst Road, Hampstead,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :--
  This invention relates to corsets or like articles of wear, such as abdominal
belts. The invention has for its chief objects to enable the figure of the wearer
to be preserved in the desired shape without constriction or undue local pressure,
and without what is commonly known as "tight lacing"; to enable what is
known as a "straight front" effect to be obtained; to permit of adjustment of
the corset or like article of wear so as to meet the requirements of inecreasing
corpulency or of pregnancy; and generally to preserve good appearance and
personal comfort and health.
  The invention more particularly has reference to corsets and especially,
although not exclusively, to those intended to be worn during pregnancy or
other abnormal conditions and aims at attainment of the objects in view by
giving support to the abdomen and relief from local strain, by enabling the
incidence of the weight to be varied or adjusted, by enabling local prominence
to be disguised, and by adapting the corset or like article to the, bony and
cartilaginous framework of the body.
  According to the said invention the corset or like article is so devised as
readily to permit of and even encourage natural increase or prominence of the
abdomen at any part where the abdomen is subject or has a disposition to such
increase or prominence while nevertheless giving support to same, and at the
same time, as a concession to appearances, provision is made for permitting of
compensation for such abdominal increase or prominence at another part by
increase or prominence of the corset or like article at that other part.
  In carrying the invention into practice the compensating increase or
prominence is obtained at the breast or bosom of the corset or the like by means
of breast flaps or shields capable of being adjusted in such manner as to project
forward to a greater or less extent; the outer garments will then fall in a
comparatively Straight inclined line (in profile) from the apex of the bust to
the lower part of the abdomen.
  In order to allow of proper increase or expansion of the abdomen the corset
or like article of wear is provided with two lacings arranged at the aides in such
manner as to embrace or include between them substantially the whole of that
portion of the body which is subject to such increase or espansion. As another
means contributing to or aiding this object, the corset or like article is cut on
the bias and has pieces of openwork elastic material at the back and in front.
  To give efficient support to the abdomen, and generally increase the comfort
to the wearer, the corset or like article is provided with straps or bands which
are so disposed as to enable the incidence of the strain upon them and the
manner of supporting such strain to lie varied as desired.



  The invention will now be described more fully with reference to the example
thereof shown by way of illustration in the accompanying drawings, in which:

  Fig. 1. is a front. view of a corset embodying the features of the invention,
and

Fig. 2 a side view of same;

  Fig. 3 shows in outline a corsetted figure in normal condition,
  Fig. 4 the same figure; corsetted, as it might appear during pregnancy,
  Fig. 5, the outline of the figure shown in Fig. 4 as it might appear with an
outer garment on over the corset, and
  Fig 6, the three shapes of Figs. 3, 4, and 5 superposed to facilitate comparison,
the shaded part representing the abdominal increase; and

  Figs. 7 and 8 show diagrammatically, from the front and side respectively,
a portion of the bony and cartilaginous framework of the body and the
approximate lines of the lacing of the corset.
  In the said drawings:--
  A A represent generally the main or body portion of the corset, B B the
breast flaps or shields, C C the abdominal bands or straps, and D D (which will
not herein be described as they form no part of the present invention) the usual
stocking suspenders.
  The body of the corset comprises pieces such as a a, boned or not as desired,
of textile fabric cut on the bias, strips such as a¹ a¹ of openwork elastic
material, and busks a² a².   These busks are of sufficient length to extend from
the base or point of the sternum to well over the point z¹ of the pelvis z, and
is of sufficient rigidity to bridge these points without exerting any pressure
upon the intervening part of the abdomen.
  The corset is laced at a³ a³ along lines approximately as indicated at y y in
Figs. 7 and 8. In these figures, x represents the sternum and x¹ x&supl; the last
pair of ribs which directly join it at its lower end, x² x² the nest pair connected
to the ribs x¹ x¹, x³ x³ the next pair, connected to the ribs x² x² and x&sup4; x&sup4; the
last pair, connected to the ribs x³ x³. The imaginary lines passing through
these various points of junction, and shown dotted at y y, indicate approximately
the manner in which the sides of the corset are cut. z z represent the hip
bones of the groin, and at these points the lines of the lacing terminate, unless,
of course, the corset is prolonged over the thighs.
  By thus providing two lines of lacing and having these at the aides and
extended the whole length of the corset, greatly increased facility of adjustment
is obtained as compared with corsets having only one lacing, at the back,
especially in the case of corsets worn during pregnancy, when the increase is
mostly from back to front. This applies both for a general "letting out" or
"taking in" of the corset and for local variations of fit.
  The breast flaps or shields B, having permanently shaped or curved bones b b are detachable and in the example shown are fastened an by means of several
pairs of spring buttons b¹ b¹ at the back.   They may be secured by single series
of like fastenings b² b² in front; but in both cases other forms of readily
detachable fastenings may be used instead of those shown. The several pairs
of fastenings b¹ b¹ at the back enable the flaps or shields B B to be put on
nearer to or further from the front as required, so that if prominence of bust
is desired they may be shifted from one pair of fastenings b¹ to another pair
further forward, as shown in dotted lines in Figure 2, and as diagrammatically
shown, in regard to position, in Figure 4.   By this means the bust can be
increased to correspond with the increase of the abdomen, so that when the
outer garments are put on the outline of the dressed figure will fall substantially
along the line p, Figs. 4 to 6, instead of along the undesirable line q.
It is of course to be understood that in referring to increase or prominence
of the bust an apparent increase only is meant, as the actual size of the natural
bust is left unaffected by the improved corset; it is the clothed or dressed
figure that is or seems to be altered thereby.


The abdominal bands or straps C C are secured on either side at points c c
near the hips but clear of the groin and cross each other just below the navel,
towards which part they widen considerably so as to give a broad area of support.
They are engaged at their upper edges, where they crass the busks, by a hook c¹
or other suitable means for keeping them in place, as otherwise they might
ride up higher than was desirable or comfortable.
  The said bands C C pass over the upper part of the opposite hips, that is to
say the left, band passes over the right hip and vice versa.   At the small of the
back or, at a slight distance beyond the lacing a³, the bands are formed into
straps c², which may be secured to buckles a4 carried by the waist of the corset and which are prolonged beyond said buckles to form braces c3 which pass over the shoulders and are secured, by any one of a series of eyelets or the like c4, to - hooks or other convenient fastenings as on the upper front part of the corset. Said 'straps may be passed through guides a6 of any convenient kind on the waist and back, and they may either be secured to the buckles a4 with their upper parts or braces left loose, or they may avoid said buckles and be used as shoulder braces merely, or both arrangements may be employed together. ' The buckles a4 are preferably in the form of clips which can be undone without removing the ends of the braces, so that the wearer, if she finds that the straps are putting a strain on her waist or are otherwise uncomfortable, may loosen the buckles without disturbing the straps.   The braces c3 will then, if in use, take up the strain and support the abdomen.   If desired the bands C C may be arranged inside the corset instead of outside, in which case the straps c3 would preferably be brought to the outside through slots or the like in the corset at or near the locality of the buckles a4.   Also, if desired, said braces may, instead of being secured in front to the body of the corset, be secured to the breast flaps or shields, preferably at a. high point, to give said breast flaps or shields good support and prevent them from . drooping.   . Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is:
  1. A corset or like article of wear having provision for permitting of the natural increase of espansion of the abdomen at any part where there is a disposition to increase or espansion while nevertheless giving support, to the abdomen, and having at the same time provision for making at another part of the figure compensation for such abdominal increase or espansion by a corresponding increase or expansion of the breast or bosom of the corset or like article, for the purposes set forth.
  2. In or for a corset or the like as set forth in Claim 1, breast flaps or shields capable of being so adjusted thereon as to project forward to a greater or less extent for the purpose set forth.
  3. In a device as set forth in Claim 2, means whereby the aforesaid bust flaps or shields can be detachably secured to the corset at or near their rear ends and at or near their front ends in such manner that their rear part may be put forward or backward as desired to give greater or less prominence to the bust.
  4. A corset or the like as set forth in Claim 1 having two lacings arranged at the aides in such manner as to embrace or include between them substantially the whole of that portion of the body which is subject to increase or expansion as set forth in said claim.
  5. A corset as set forth in Claim 4, cut substantially as shown, on the bias, and with pieces of openwork elastic material at the back and in front, for the purpose set -forth.
  6. In a corset or the like as set forth. in Claim 1 straps or bands adapted to take up the weight of the abdomen in such manner that the incidence of,- and,


the manner of supporting, the strain upon them may be varied as desired
substantially as set forth.
  7. A corset or the like as set forth in Claim G having two bands secured
thereto at or near the hips and adapted to be crossed over the abdomen below the navel and secured to the waist or the small of the back or passed as braces
over the shoulders for the purpose set forth.
 
Dated this 27th day of March, 1912.

      PHILIP M. JUSTICE, Chartered Patent Agent,
       55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, For the Applicant.