CHAPTER 4

Description of Figure

It is simple to give an accurate figure description. You know at a glance whether a woman's figure lines are good or poor. If they are good, you realise that it is because the development of the figure is normal.   If they are poor, it is because the development is abnormal, either by reason of excess fullness or not enough fullness at certain places.   We simply ask that you mark in the proper place on the order form whether that part you are describing has a full, normal, or scant development for the particular figure you are studying.

The figure should always be described as it is, uncontrolled, not as you wish it to appear in the new garment.   The description of figure provides the designer with a picture of the uncontrolled figure, while the measurements provide a picture of the controlled figure.

ILLUSTRATIONS

The illustrations in this chapter are intended to shew only a scant or full development of one particular part of each figure.

DESCRIPTIVE TERMS

"Full" means greater development or fullness than normal and more curve in the lines of the figure.

"Normal" means normal development or curve.

"Scant" means less development or fullness than normal, or less curve.

As each description is determined place an "X" in the proper space on order form.   "V" means "Very" full or scant.   "S" means "Slightly" full or scant.

SECTION OF ORDER FORM
DESCRIPTION AND
MEASUREMENTS OF FIGURE
   Full  Normal Scant
Above Waist      
Below Waist      
Bust      
Back Down      
Diaphragm      
Side Hip      
Under Arm      
Side Thighs      
Back Up      
Front Thighs      
Abdomen      
Prominent Hip Bones ................
Is top of Garment below Bust? Yes.... No....
Abdomen High ..... Low....

ABOVE WAIST

Bust :---View the figure from the side to determine whether the size of the breasts calls for a description of "Full," "Normal," or "Scant."   (See Figures 10 and 11.)


Fig. 10
BUST FULL

Fig. 11
BUST SCANT

Diaphragm :---For purposes of corsetry, the diaphragm is considered as that part of the figure at and above waist which is covered by the front of a garment but not extending into the bust.   Where there is a distinct bulge or curve at this point, as viewed from the side, the description will be "Full."   When the figure is only slightly rounded at this point, the description will be "Normal."   When this part of the figure is flat or concave, the description of figure will be "Scant."

Prominent Ribs :---When the client's ribs are prominent write "Prominent ribs" on the order form under "Remarks."

"Under Arm" :---View the figure from the front, and consider the amount of development from the waist up to the ,underarm.   (See Figures 12 and 13.)


Fig. 12
UNDER ARM FULL

Fig. 13
UNDER ARM SCANT
"Back-Up" :--View the figure from the side, and consider the amount of development from the waist to the lower part of the shoulder blades.   (See Figures 14 and 15.)

Fig. 14
BACK UP FULL
Fig. 15
BACK UP SCANT

BELOW WAIST

"Back-Down" :--View the figure from the side, and consider the development from the waist down to the crease where the buttock joins leg.   (See Figures 16 and 17.)   When this part of the figure shews a full curve, the description is "Full."   We wish to caution against any attempt to describe this part of the figure as being flatter than it actually is, for the purpose of giving a straighter back line.   Such practice would defeat its own purpose, as our designers would get an inaccurate picture of the figure.


Fig. 16
BACK DOWN FULL

Fig. 17
BACK DOWN SCANT

When the back line is neither full and rounding, nor flat, the description is "Normal."

It is generally the fatigue type of figure, with a straight, flat back line that warrants the description of "Scant."

Fig. 18
SIDE HIP FULL
Fig. 19
SIDE HIP SCANT

"Side-Hip" :---View the figure from the front, and consider the development at the side of the figure from the waistline down to the top of the thighs.   (See Figures 18 and 19.)

"Prominent Hip Bones" :---If the client's hip bones are prominent, check this space on order. This condition is generally found on thin figures.

Fig. 20
SIDE THIGHS FULL
Fig. 21
SIDE THIGHS SCANT

"Side Thighs" :---View the figure from the front and consider the thigh development.   (See Figures 20 and 21.)   This is the portion of the leg from the hip down to the knee.   If there is a bulging curve, the description should be "Full."   If there is only a slight curve, giving a smooth unbroken line, the description should be "Normal."   If the line shews no rounding fullness, the description should be "Scant."

"Front Thighs" :---View the figure from the side, considering the line of the figure from the hip down to the knee.   (See Figures 22 and 23.)   The same reasoning as used for the description of "Side Thighs" will apply here.   At times you will find that the side thighs should be described as "Full" and the front thighs "Normal," or vice versa.


Fig. 22
FRONT THIGHS FULL

Fig. 23
FRONT THIGHS SCANT

"Abdomen" :---View the figure from the side and consider the abdomen, which starts at the waistline.   (See Figures 24 and 25.)   When the abdomen has a full, rounding curve, the description will be "Full."   The "Normal" abdomen will have some rounding curve, but no pronounced fullness.   The "Scant" abdomen will be practically flat.


Fig. 24
ABDOMEN FULL

Fig. 25
ABDOMEN SCANT

When the rounding fullness is normally placed, with the greater part of the fullness neither high nor low, the description "Full" is sufficient.   When the fullness is carried high, both "Full" and "High" should be checked.   When the fullness is low, as in a pendulous abdomen, both "Full" and "Low" should be checked.