CHAPTER 8

Adjustment

LACING CORSETS

When placing a lacer in a corset with lacers at front, start at the top and lace down to the bottom, leaving a loop at the waistline and another as near the lower end of the clasp as possible-never below the clasp as the entire loop should pull against the clasp.   A back lace corset should have one loop at the waistline and another at a point 9 inches below waist.

If the waistline falls directly upon an eyelet, the upper thread of the loop would be placed through the eyelet, and the lower thread through the eyelet below.

These loops are made by threading the lacer through the eyelets as illustrated in Fig. 57.   By threading the lacers as shewn in this illustration, there are no open spaces between the lacers through which the flesh can bulge.

The lacers are so threaded that every alternate loop crosses on the outside of the corset, while the other loops cross underneath. This makes it easier when adjusting the corset always to pull against opposite eyelets because the sections of lacer crossing on top may be easily selected by the sense of touch and without seeing the action in a mirror.


Fig. 57
FRONT LACE CORSET LACED PROPERLY

When there is an odd number of eyelets from top of corset to top of loop at waistline, the lacer should be started from underneath as shewn in the illustration.   When an even number, start lacer on the outside of the corset.   Those directions apply both to front and back lace corsets.

MOULDING CLASPS AND BONES

When a garment is despatched from the factory, the ends of the clasp and bones are already moulded. In each case the corsetière should complete this moulding to fit the curves of the client she is fitting.   In time the bones tend to straighten, and the client should understand the importance of keeping them moulded.

Bend the bottom edge of the clasp in so that it will fit snugly to the figure.   Lay it over the edge of table or chair if necessary.   Bend the bottom ends of all bones in toward the body, bending those over the abdomen and hip enough so that they are just off a straight line ; those at the bottom of the back should be curved very decidedly so that they will follow the lines of the figure at that point.   Even after you have adjusted the garment on the figure, you will find sometimes that you will have to re-mould the bones to have them just right.


Fig. 58
MOULDlNG BONES

Figure 58 shews the mechanics of this.   All bones are very springy.   The bones at front and side are short, with the soft cloth part of the garment below the bottom end.   The bones at back are long, and unless they are shaped at bottom so as to conform to the figure, because of their springiness, they wil draw the soft cloth back from the front and make the garment seem loose at bottom back.

When the garment is high above waist and the figure is full above waist, the bones from under arm, to back should be bent outward slightly at the waistline and then curved in again slightly at the top.   This gives a sort of "pocketing" effect, and helps hold the flesh inside the garment instead of having it push up over the top of the garment.   This applies especially to Spencer-Alls.   The drawing at the right illustrates this.

ADJUSTMENT

Having had a Spencer designed to meet the client's needs, the next requirement is correct daily adjustment of the garment.

A booklet giving full directions for adjustment is sent with the garment from the manufactory and should be delivered to the client.   Make her realise that she must follow the directions faithfully, or our guarantee is void.

Have the client adjust her garment in your presence until you know that she can do it properly. This is the only way you can be sure that she understands the proper method.

Notice whether the client sits down and stoops properly.   If not, make helpful suggestions along these lines, as they will be an aid to better posture and result in greater satisfaction and longer wear from her Spencer.

The proper way to sit down is to stand close to the chair with the feet close together ; then bend the trunk of the body forward from the hips ; then sit down, sitting well back in the chair so that the spine touches the back of the chair below waist and at shoulders.

The correct sitting position is illustrated by Figure 59. Notice that the subject sits well back on the chair so that the trunk of the body is erect.

Fig. 59 Fig. 60

To stoop properly, step forward with the left foot.   Allow the trunk of the body to sink straight down, bending the right knee and resting the weight of the body on the ball of the right foot-the heel will be raised from the floor.   (See Figure 60.)

TO ADJUST CORSETS

Have the two sides of the corset as wide apart as the length of the lacer will permit.   Each time that the corset is removed from the figure, open the corset to the full length of the lacers.

Place a front lace corset on the body with the opening at centre of front, and a back lace corset with the clasp at centre of front, somewhat lower on the figure than it will be when it is fully adjusted.   If the abdomen is large or high, do not place the corset lower on figure but locate its exact position.   It is helpful, if the abdomen is quite high and firm, to place the corset a trifle high before adjusting.   As lacers are drawn in and the abdominal flesh smoothed back toward hip, the corset settles into correct position.

Fasten the clasp, beginning at the bottom hook and working up to the top and fasten the hooks below clasp.

Fasten the side hose supporters loosely, merely to prevent the stockings falling down while the garment is being adjusted. Fig. 61 shews the corset on the body after these operations have been completed.


Fig. 61
FIRST ADJUSTMENT

Fig. 62
SMOOTHING UNDERCLOTHES

Draw the lacers about halfway to their final adjustment, bearing in mind that while the lacers are being tightened, the corset will work up on the figure somewhat and settle into the proper place around the waist.

Now insert the hand between the corset and the body and smooth the superfluous flesh over abdomen to the right and left.   Do not lift this superfluous flesh up into or above the waistline.   Do not let the adjustment of the lacer force it up into or above the waistline.

Grasp the underclothing above and below the corset and pull it out until smooth, thereby helping to distribute the flesh.

Fig. 62 shews the wearer smoothing the underclothing.

Draw lacers to desired tightness at waistline and tie loop. By drawing in at waistline first, corset will be held in place.   Then draw lacers tight from bottom of corset to waistline.   Tie the loops of lacings at bottom of clasp.   Next tighten lacers from waistline to top of corset.

Fig. 63
PROPERLY ADJUSTED
Fig. 64
IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED

After the adjustment is completed, fasten the side hose supporters so they will draw straight down from the corset.   Fasten the front hose supporters so they draw toward the inner part of the leg.   The fastening of the front hose supporters is left until the last to avoid any possibility of the front of the corset being drawn down on the figure.

The new corset should be about 2 inches apart from top to bottom when completely laced.   (See Fig. 63.)

Do not have the opening narrower at any one place.   If you do not keep edges at opening parallel, the bones will turn on edge and cause the corset to wear at these places. (See Fig. 64.)

These directions apply both to front lace and back lace corsets.

A fly, or flap under the lacing of a front lace corset is not necessary if the corset is properly adjusted.   We provide a fly if ordered.   See price list.   The fly is held in place by means of two eyelets at top and bottom of fly.   Pass the lacer through eyelets when placing it in corset.

Fig. 65
READY TO PLACE ON FIGURE
Fig. 66
STEPPING INTO CORSET

When ordering a fly on a special order form, give the material and the total length of the clasp so that we can make the fly the correct length.

TO ADJUST THE SUPPORTING CORSET

Except as herein modified, the Spencer Supporting Corset should be adjusted on the figure exactly as though it were a dress corset. The Supporting Corset is made in the front lace style only, because the support tends to flatten the abdomen, and there is no way to draw in the front part of the back lace corset as the abdomen grows smaller.

Before the corset is put on the body, see that the tapes of the supporting section are run through the openings and engaged with the slides on each side. Have tapes adjusted so as to leave plenty of room to step into the corset.   Have the smooth surface of the supporting section next to the body, and the side with the bone casings away from the body.

Fig. 67
ADJUSTING SUPPORTING SECTION
Fig. 68
ADJUSTING TAPES

Fig. 65 represents the corset in the hands, ready to be put on.

Place the corset on the body either by stepping into it or slipping it down over the head.   (See Fig. 66.)

Fig. 67 shews the corset not adjusted, but with the tapes operating the supporting section drawn taut enough to hold it in place.

Draw in the tapes regulating the supporting belt from time to time as the lacers are adjusted.   (See Fig. 68.)

Now lie flat on the back with a pillow under the hips and adjust the lacers as you would a dress corset.   (See Fig. 69.)


Fig. 69
ADJUSTMENT LYING DOWN

While still lying down and after tightening the lacers, draw up the tapes which operate the supporting section to their final adjustment. Make the bottom tape as tight as it can be worn comfortably, and gradually decrease the tension on each higher tape until the top tapes are no tighter than the corset itself is at that point.   It is not essential that the final adjustment be made while lying down, but better results can sometimes be secured.


Fig. 70
PROPERLY ADJUSTED

Do not at first adjust the support too tightly.   If it seems too tight, make the adjustment a little looser

The soft, fatty tissue covering the abdomen should not be lifted up into, or above the waistline. There is a certain type of figure where the abdomen is very large and, because the contents of the abdominal cavity have sagged out of place, the waist is disproportionately small. In such cases the abdomen should be lifted sufficiently to bring the waist back to normal size as it was controlled when taking the measurements, but under no other condition should the figure be any larger at the waistline with the supporting corset than with any other type of corset.

TO ADJUST THE SACRO-ILIAC CORSET

Place the Sacro-iliac Corset on the figure the same as a dress corset.   Draw in the tapes regulating the Sacro-iliac band from time to time as the lacers are adjusted.

After the final adjustment of the lacers and when the corset is securely fastened in its proper place on the figure, the tapes of the Sacro-iliac band should be as tight as can be worn.

ADJUSTMENT OF TAPES

Fig. 71 shews the right way and the wrong way of adjusting the tapes in the slides of the Supporting Corset, the Spencer Belt, and the Sacro-iliac Corset. In tightening the tapes, they should be pulled exactly at right angles to the slide. In other words, the tape, after passing through and leaving the slide, should be exactly parallel with the part of the tape which leads towards the slide.


Fig. 71
ADJUSTING TAPES, RIGHT AND WRONG METHOD

If, in tightening the tape, you pull it crooked, it will result in pulling the slide out of place and the tape will be damaged.

The foregoing instruction should be carefully given to each new client to avoid annoyance and the necessity for replacing slides and tapes.

After tapes are all adjusted, they should be tucked under the loops, as shewn in illustration No. 72.


Fig. 72
TAPES ADJUSTED

METHOD OF RELEASING TAPES

The method of releasing the tapes is shewn by Figures 73, 74 and 75.

First grasp the free end of the tape as shewn in Fig. 73.   Then pull it back as shewn in Fig. 74.   Continue to pull it back to the point where the slide is unlocked.   (See Fig. 75.)   By holding it loosely in this position, the tape can easily be pulled through the slide.


Fig. 73

Fig. 74

Fig. 75
METHOD OF RELEASING TAPES

ADJUSTMENT-SPENCER BELTS


Fig. 76
BELT PROPERLY ADJUSTED OFF FIGURE.

Place the ends of the tapes through the slides on each side, leaving the belt as large as the length of tapes will permit. (See Fig. 76.)

Place the belt around the body just as you would the supporting corset, either by stepping into it (see Fig. 66) or by slipping it down over the head.   (See Fig. 77.)

Fig. 77
PLACING OVER HEAD
Fig. 78
PROPERLY ADJUSTED

Settle the belt on the figure a trifle lower than it is to be worn and draw the tapes about halfway in on the final adjustment, always tightening the lower tapes first.   Now fasten the hip hose supporters loosely, just to hold stockings up while the belt is being adjusted.

The belt is now adjusted to the point where the tapes of the supporting section are pulled about halfway to the final adjustment.   For the final adjustment follow the same method as used for a Supporting corset, being careful not to adjust the top tape too tightly.

The last step is to fasten all hose supporters, or if perineal straps are to be worn, adjust the length so they are taut.

The Spencer Belt cannot control the soft flesh covering the abdominal wall of the large figure as a corset will control it.   Consequently, the figure will be somewhat enlarged at the waist.   This condition may be minimized by carefully smoothing the flesh back toward the hips exactly as is done when adjusting the corset.

Do not adjust too tightly at first.   If belt seems tight, loosen it.

ADJUSTMENT OF SPENCER-ALL

After moulding the bones as previously instructed, place the garment on the figure with the shoulder straps adjusted too long rather than too short.   When the straps are adjusted too short, they hold the garment so that the back will be too high and tight, causing poor moulding of the bust, and the top edge of garment at under arm and over bust will appear to be loose.

The underwear should be loose enough through the bust so as to allow room for free moulding of the bust into the bust pockets.

If the Spencer-All has an inner supporting section, it should be adjusted at this time.   Use the same method as explained for the supporting corset except that this section should not be pulled in as tightly.   The Spencer-All cannot give as much abdominal support as is given by either the Spencer Belt or the Supporting Corset.   After the outer garment is hooked, if it appears to be loose across the abdomen, the tapes of the supporting section should be loosened slightly, an equal amount on each side.

Fasten the hooks and eyes starting at the top, and adjust the shoulder straps to the proper length.

Fasten all hose supporters, being careful not to have the front hose supporters so tight as to place a pulling-down strain on this part of the garment.

ADJUSTMENT OF BANDEAUX

The bandeau should not be placed on the figure until the adjustment of the foundation garment is complete.   Care must be used to keep the shoulder straps long and loose until final adjustment.   When the straps are short, they pull the bandeau so the back is high and tight, cause poor moulding of the bust, and the top edge at under arm and over bust will appear to be loose.

Be sure that the underwear is loose enough so as not to interfere with the free moulding of the bust.

Place the bandeau on the figure and fasten from top to bottom.

Straighten the position of the bandeau so that it will be placed correctly on the figure. Then fasten the bandeau tab.

Mould the bust into the pockets by placing the hand inside the bandeau, and smooth out any wrinkles in the underwear.

Adjust the shoulder straps to proper length.